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Parts for your 2007 Toyota Highlander-Oil seals
Loctite 243 Threadlocker Super Nut Lock Medium Strength Blue 10ml - 1311375
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Explore 4WD & Adventure
Loctite 263 - Threadlocker - High Strength - Red - 36ml - 2205310
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Penrite ATF FS Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid 4L - ATFFS004
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Penrite ATF MHP Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid 4L - ATFMHP004
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2007 Toyota Highlander (Kluger) oil seals — what they do and when to sort them
Oil seals are absolutely used on the 2007 Toyota Highlander (known as Kluger in Australia and New Zealand). Technical sources including the Toyota Repair Manual and Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue list multiple seals: front and rear crankshaft oil seals, camshaft seals, transaxle drive-shaft (axle) seals, and—on AWD models—transfer case and rear differential oil seals. Aisin transaxle manuals for the U-series boxes and reputable seal catalogues also document these applications, confirming their relevance to this vehicle.
On this Highlander, oil seals do the heavy lifting of keeping lubricants where they belong while keeping dust and water out. Around the engine, the front crank seal sits behind the harmonic balancer, while the rear main seal sits between engine and transmission. Camshaft seals sit behind the timing covers. In the driveline, the axle seals keep ATF or gear oil inside the transaxle or transfer/diff housings, and AWD models add pinion and side seals in the rear diff. When these elastomer lips age, harden or groove the shafts, they start to sweat or leak.
They’re not a “replace-by-date” item, but they do like a regular look during servicing. A good workshop will inspect for misting around the crank pulley, bellhousing, and axle stubs, and check fluid levels. If the V6 3MZ-FE is in play, replacing the front crank and cam seals while the timing belt is off is smart if any seeping is seen. For the 4‑cylinder 2AZ‑FE (timing chain), seals are usually replaced on condition only.
- Telltale signs: oil drops on the driveway, oily residue near the crank pulley or lower timing cover, a weep at the bellhousing, ATF around an axle, burnt‑oil whiff on warm-up, or low fluid levels.
- Good practice: use quality seals, lightly oil the lips, and drive them square with the proper tool, check PCV function to avoid crankcase pressure stressing seals, and always refill with the Toyota‑specified fluids after any seal job.
Rear main and some axle seal jobs involve decent labour, so bundling them with other work (timing belt on the V6, CV shaft replacement, or clutch/gearbox removal on other platforms) keeps costs sensible. DIYers should be aware some procedures need special service tools and precise installation depth—if in doubt, leave it to a pro. With the right parts and technique, fresh oil seals help the Highlander stay tidy under the bonnet and protect expensive components for the long haul.
What oil seals are on a 2007 Toyota Highlander?
This model typically uses front and rear crankshaft oil seals, camshaft seals (behind the timing covers), and transaxle drive‑shaft (axle) seals. AWD variants add transfer case seals and rear differential pinion and side seals. Power steering pump shaft seals can also be a source of leaks on vehicles still running the original hydraulic system.
How much does a rear main seal replacement cost on this model?
Because the transmission must come out, labour is the big ticket. In Australia and New Zealand, workshops commonly quote in the ballpark of AUD/NZD ,900–,1,800 for a rear main seal, depending on FWD vs AWD, incidental parts (flexplate bolts, seal housing gasket/FIPG), and whether other jobs are bundled at the same time. The seal itself is relatively inexpensive.
Is it OK to keep driving with a leaking axle (drive‑shaft) seal?
A slight mist might not strand the vehicle, but ATF or gear oil loss can escalate quickly and damage the transaxle or diff. If fresh wet oil is visible at the axle, book it in soon and monitor fluid levels closely. On AWD models, a leaking transfer or diff seal deserves prompt attention to avoid costly wear.