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Parts for your 2010 Toyota Aurion-Oil seals
Loctite 243 Threadlocker Super Nut Lock Medium Strength Blue 10ml - 1311375
Fitment Notes:
Explore 4WD & Adventure
Loctite 263 - Threadlocker - High Strength - Red - 36ml - 2205310
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Penrite ATF DXIII Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid 4L - ATFDX3004
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2010 Toyota Aurion oil seals — what they do and when to sort them
Per Toyota service literature for the Aurion’s 2GR-FE V6 and Aisin U660E automatic transmission (Toyota Repair Manual and Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue), this model is fitted with multiple oil seals. That includes the front and rear crankshaft oil seals, camshaft seals, oil pump seal, and the transaxle drive shaft (axle) oil seals. So yes — oil seals are absolutely relevant on the 2010 Toyota Aurion.
The job of these seals is simple but critical: keep engine oil and transmission fluid where they belong under the bonnet, while letting shafts spin freely. When they harden or wear, leaks start, fluids drop, and the rest of the drivetrain can cop a hiding. On the Aurion, healthy seals help the 3.5-litre V6 stay clean and the six-speed auto shift smoothly.
There’s no fixed service interval for replacing oil seals in Toyota documentation, they’re changed on condition. During regular servicing (every 10,000–15,000 kilometres typical in AU/NZ), a mechanic should inspect for weeping around the crank pulley area, bellhousing, timing cover edges, and the transaxle where the driveshafts enter. A faint oil mist, burnt-oil whiff, or reddish ATF around the shafts are early clues to act on.
- Common Aurion seals: front crankshaft, rear main (crankshaft), camshaft, oil pump, and U660E transaxle drive shaft seals.
- Leak signs: oil spotting on the driveway, oily residue under the car, ATF seeping at the inner CV areas, or a rising oil consumption.
When replacing, a workshop will reference Toyota specs to avoid drama:- Use genuine or reputable OEM seals sized for the 2GR-FE/U660E.- Check crank and cam running surfaces for grooves, a wear sleeve may be needed.- Lightly oil the seal lip, press it in square using the correct driver, and torque everything to spec from the Toyota Repair Manual.- Confirm crankcase ventilation (PCV) is clear — excess pressure can force even new seals to leak.
Owners who tackle long highway kilometres or tow in Aussie heat or Kiwi hills should be extra vigilant, as temperature cycles can age rubber faster. Cleaning the area and re-checking after a few drives helps confirm the source before committing to bigger jobs like a rear main. With the right parts and procedure, fresh seals keep the Aurion tidy, leak-free, and happy for the long haul.
FAQs
Where are the main oil seals on a 2010 Toyota Aurion?
The Aurion’s key engine seals are at the crankshaft front (behind the harmonic balancer) and rear (between engine and transmission), plus camshaft seals at the timing end. The U660E auto uses drive shaft oil seals where each axle enters the transaxle casing.
These locations are shown in Toyota service manuals and the EPC for the GSV40 Aurion with the 2GR-FE engine.
How can someone tell an Aurion oil seal is leaking?
Look for fresh oil or ATF around the relevant area, dampness that returns after a clean, or drips under the car after parking. A burnt-oil smell near the exhaust or red ATF mist near the inner CV joints also points to a seal on the way out.
During servicing, a technician will clean, drive, and re-check to pinpoint the exact seal before repairs.
Do Aurion oil seals need regular replacement?
There’s no routine replacement interval in Toyota guidance. They’re changed when leaking or when access is already open for related jobs (for example, timing cover work or transmission output service).
Regular inspections, correct oils, and a healthy PCV system help extend seal life on AU/NZ roads and climates.