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Parts for your 2006 Honda Accord-Brake booster
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 80 Series (2 Bolt Brake Master Cylinder) - DBAMV1003
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 80 Series (4 Bolt Brake Master Cylinder) - DBAMV1004
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 70 Series 8/1999 - 8/12 - DBAMV1002
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2006 Honda Accord Brake Booster
Based on the Honda Accord 2003–2007 factory Service Manual (Brake System section), Honda’s electronic parts catalog listings for “Booster Assy., Brake” on 2.4L and 3.0L models, and mainstream workshop guides (e.g., Haynes for 2003–2012 Accord), the 2006 Honda Accord is fitted with a vacuum brake booster. It’s a standard component across petrol variants, and diesel models use a vacuum pump to feed the booster. So yes—this part is relevant to, and used on, the 2006 Accord.
The brake booster’s job is to multiply pedal effort using engine vacuum, so the driver gets strong, progressive braking without standing on the pedal. It sits on the firewall between the brake pedal and the master cylinder. A check valve holds vacuum in the booster, delivering consistent assist even with quick throttle changes. On Aussie and Kiwi Accords, you’ll find it on the driver’s side of the engine bay in right-hand-drive cars.
Petrol Accords draw vacuum straight from the intake manifold, diesel variants use a vacuum pump to achieve the same assist. Either way, if the booster or its check valve leaks, the pedal goes hard and stopping distance grows—especially noticeable at low speeds or during repeated stops.
- Typical symptoms: a rock-hard brake pedal, longer stopping distances, a constant hiss from the firewall, the pedal dropping less than normal when the engine starts, or a change in idle when the brake is pressed. A sinking pedal usually points to the master cylinder, not the booster.
There’s no scheduled replacement for the booster, but it should be checked during brake services (say, every 20,000–40,000 km). Inspect the vacuum hose, check valve, and grommet for cracks or oil swelling, and listen for hissing. A quick driveway test helps: with the engine off, pump the pedal a few times, hold light pressure, then start the engine—the pedal should drop slightly as vacuum assist kicks in. If it doesn’t, there’s likely a booster or vacuum supply issue.
When replacement is needed, fit a quality booster and a new check valve and grommet. Take care aligning the pushrod, set pedal free play correctly, and adjust the brake light switch. If the master cylinder is removed, bleed the system properly (use the brake fluid grade shown on the cap—commonly DOT 3 on these Hondas). ABS/VSA will work as normal once the hydraulic system is bled and free of air. The car can still stop with a failed booster, but pedal effort is much higher—best not to drive it that way.
Popular questions about the 2006 Honda Accord brake booster
Does a 2006 Accord have a brake booster?
Yes, all 2006 Honda Accord variants are equipped with a vacuum brake booster. Petrol models use manifold vacuum, diesel versions use a vacuum pump to supply the booster.
What are the signs the brake booster is failing?
Expect a very firm pedal, longer stopping distances, a hissing noise at the firewall, and little to no pedal drop when the engine starts. If the pedal slowly sinks, that usually indicates the master cylinder instead.
How much does replacement typically cost and how long does it take?
In Australia or New Zealand, parts can range roughly $250–$700 for aftermarket and more for genuine. Labour is commonly 1.5–3.0 hours depending on engine bay access and whether the master cylinder needs to be removed and the system bled. Total jobs often land around $500–$1,200, varying by workshop and parts choice.