Parts for your 1990 Mitsubishi Pajero-Coil springs

1990 Mitsubishi Pajero coil springs – what they do, where they fit, and how to look after them

Based on recognised technical references — including the Mitsubishi Pajero (L040/NF–NG) factory workshop manual, Haynes Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero Repair Manual, and period Mitsubishi Australia brochures (1989–1991) — coil springs are indeed used on most 1990 Pajero wagon models. The front suspension runs torsion bars, while the rear is a live axle located by links and a Panhard rod with coil springs on the majority of passenger wagons. Some commercial or cab-chassis variants kept rear leaf springs, so coil springs won’t apply to those. For a typical 1990 Pajero wagon in Australia or New Zealand, rear coil springs are relevant and serviceable items.

On a 1990 Pajero wagon, the rear coil springs carry the vehicle’s weight, set the ride height, and let the shocks do their job properly. They compress and rebound over corrugations, ruts, and kerbs, keeping traction tidy and the cabin from copping a hammering. When they’re tired or sagged, the Paj can sit tail-low, bottom out over bumps, and feel nervous when loaded or towing.

Regular checks pay off. At service time (every 10,000–15,000 km is a good rhythm), have the rear coils inspected for cracks, flaking rust, broken pigtails, and shiny “coil-bind” marks. Compare ride height side-to-side, a droop of more than a few millimetres suggests fatigue. If the springs are corroded from beach work, a freshwater rinse underneath helps slow it down. Also check the rubber isolators and seats — they harden and squeak, and can let grit chew into the coil paint.

If replacement’s on the cards, always do coils in axle pairs. Pick a spring rate that suits how the Pajero is actually used — touring with drawers and a spare on the door might want a mild constant-load spring, a daily driver on stock tyres usually prefers OE rate for ride comfort. Match shocks to the spring rate and any lift height. After fitting, torque the control arm and Panhard bolts at normal ride height to avoid bush wind-up, and book a wheel alignment to keep tyre wear even. For lifts, stick to local rules around maximum height, brake line slack, and headlight aim, and consider caster correction if it’s more than a mild raise.

• Tell-tales for worn coils: rear-end sag, clunks, bottoming out, and nervous handling when loaded.
• Good practice: rinse after beach runs, inspect at each service, replace coils and shocks as a matched set when they’re tired.
• Note: Front end uses torsion bars, not coils, some commercial variants in 1990 run rear leaf springs instead of coils.

Popular questions

Do all 1990 Pajeros have rear coil springs?
Most passenger wagons do, but not all variants. The 1990 Pajero wagon typically uses rear coils with a live axle, while front suspension is torsion-bar. Certain commercial or cab-chassis versions of the same era retain rear leaf springs, so it’s worth checking the VIN plate and suspension hardware before ordering parts.

How often should rear coil springs be replaced on a 1990 Pajero?
There’s no fixed interval. Replace when they’re cracked, sagging, rusty to the point of pitting, or the ride height and handling have gone off. With age, loads, and rough roads, many original coils are tired by 200,000–300,000 km, but condition matters more than kilometres. Always replace in pairs and inspect the isolators and seats at the same time.

Can heavier-duty or lifted coils be fitted?
Yes, provided they’re matched to appropriate shocks and installed within local compliance limits. Aftermarket constant-load or mild-lift coils can improve stance and stability when carrying gear. Keep an eye on brake line length, bump stop clearance, driveline angles, and book an alignment, larger lifts may need extra parts or certification depending on state or NZ regulations.