Parts for your 2017 Mitsubishi Outlander-Thrust bearing

2017 Mitsubishi Outlander thrust-bearing: what’s fitted, what isn’t, and what to do about it

Technical references from Mitsubishi’s factory workshop information (GF/GG-series, 2016–2018), the Mitsubishi ASA parts catalogue for 2017 Outlander model codes, and the Jatco CVT (JF016E/W1CJB) service literature show that a traditional clutch “thrust” or release bearing is only present on 2017 Outlander models equipped with a manual gearbox. CVT (2.4 petrol), conventional 6‑speed automatic (3.0 V6 and most 2.2 diesel), and PHEV reduction-drive Outlanders do not use a serviceable clutch thrust/release bearing. These transmissions rely on a torque converter or electric drive and contain internal thrust elements that aren’t separate service items. For owners in Australia and New Zealand, where most 2017 Outlanders are CVT, auto, or PHEV, a thrust-bearing isn’t relevant as a routine service part.

• Manual transmission (limited availability in some markets, incl. base 2.0 petrol): uses a clutch release/thrust bearing.
• 2.4 petrol with CVT (JF016E/W1CJB), 3.0 V6 with 6‑speed auto, 2.2 diesel with 6‑speed auto, and PHEV: no serviceable clutch thrust bearing.

Why it’s not used on CVT/auto/PHEV: the factory manuals for CVT and automatic sections list a torque converter and internal bearings but no external release bearing or clutch fork. The PHEV documentation details an e‑drive with a reduction gear and no manual clutch assembly. That’s why parts catalogues don’t list a clutch release bearing for those VINs. For these drivetrains, sensible maintenance is focused on manufacturer-approved transmission fluid inspections/changes and software updates, not thrust-bearing replacement.

If fitted (manual gearbox): The thrust, better called the clutch release bearing, lets the pressure plate disengage smoothly when the clutch pedal is pressed. It carries axial load and spins against the diaphragm spring fingers, so it needs to be smooth, quiet, and well-aligned. On an Outlander manual, it’s not a scheduled service item by itself, it’s normally replaced whenever the clutch is out. Best practice is to fit a complete clutch kit (pressure plate, friction disc, release bearing) and inspect the fork, pivot ball, guide tube and the hydraulics while there. Telltale signs of a crook bearing include a chirp, squeal or rumble only when the pedal is pressed, a rough pedal feel, or trouble selecting gears. Left too long, it can mark the pressure plate fingers and lead to poor disengagement.

For reliability, quality OEM-equivalent bearings are worth the coin, and a dab of the correct high-temp moly grease on the guide points (never on the bearing face) is standard trade practice. Replacement time varies by workshop, but because the gearbox has to come out, labour can be a fair chunk, owners usually time it with a worn clutch to avoid paying twice. Driving habits make a massive difference—resting a foot on the pedal or holding the car on the clutch at lights will shorten the bearing’s life. Keeping the pedal action clean and not slipping the clutch unnecessarily will help it go the distance.

• Does a 2017 Outlander have a thrust bearing?
• What are the symptoms of a failing thrust (release) bearing on a manual Outlander?
• How much does it cost to replace a release bearing on a 2017 Outlander manual?

Does a 2017 Outlander have a thrust bearing? On a 2017 Outlander, only the manual-transmission variant runs a clutch release (thrust) bearing. CVT, conventional automatic and PHEV versions don’t have a serviceable clutch thrust bearing.

What are the symptoms of a failing thrust (release) bearing on a manual Outlander? Common signs are a squeal, chirp or rumble that appears when the clutch pedal is pressed and disappears when released, along with a notchy pedal feel or difficult gear engagement. Noise present all the time usually points elsewhere.

How much does it cost to replace a release bearing on a 2017 Outlander manual? Because the gearbox has to be removed, most workshops fit a full clutch kit while they’re in there. In Australia or New Zealand, owners can typically expect a bill in the low four figures for parts and labour, varying with parts choice and workshop rates.