Parts for your 2013 Toyota Rav4-Strut mounts

2013 Toyota RAV4 strut mounts — what they do and when to replace them

Strut mounts are absolutely relevant to the 2013 Toyota RAV4. The XA40-series RAV4 runs a MacPherson strut front suspension, and that design uses a dedicated upper strut mount that also carries a bearing for steering rotation. This is shown in the Toyota Repair Manual (TIS) front suspension section for the 2013 RAV4 and in Toyota’s Electronic Parts Catalogue as the front “support sub-assembly” for the shock/strut. Major aftermarket catalogues (e.g., KYB, Monroe) also list specific front strut mounts for this model, further confirming fitment.

On this RAV4, the front strut mounts do two big jobs: they isolate vibration and road noise from the cabin, and they let the strut turn smoothly with the steering thanks to an integrated bearing. When the rubber in the mount hardens or cracks, or the bearing notches up, owners can cop clunks over bumps, vague steering, or a creaky, springy feel when turning at low speeds. Because New Zealand and Australian roads and distances can be tough on suspension, mounts can age even if the struts still look decent.

As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to inspect the front strut mounts every 20,000–30,000 km, especially if the RAV4 does lots of open-road or corrugated-surface work. Look for perished rubber, shiny metal-to-metal witness marks, or play at the top of the strut. Steering “memory steer” or a graunchy feel at parking speeds often points to a tired bearing in the mount.

Best practice when fitting new front struts on a 2013 RAV4 is to replace the strut mounts at the same time. Doing both sides together keeps steering feel even. Use quality mounts with new bearings, follow the torque specs for the top nut and mount-to-body fasteners, and book a wheel alignment once it’s all back together. If the vehicle runs a lot of gear or tows, consider heavy-duty options that better cope with load without adding harshness.

Note: the rear of the 2013 RAV4 is not a front-style strut, it uses a separate shock and spring arrangement. There’s still an upper shock mount back there, but it’s a different part to a front “strut mount”. So, when someone says “RAV4 strutmounts”, they’re usually talking about the front.

• Typical signs a front strut mount needs attention:
  • Clunks or knocks over sharp bumps
  • Creaks when turning the wheel at low speed
  • Wandering, tramlining, or uneven tyre wear
  • Visible rubber cracking around the mount
• Typical service window: often 80,000–150,000 km, but sooner with rough-road use.

Technical sources referenced: Toyota Repair Manual (TIS) for 2013 RAV4 front suspension (MacPherson strut with support sub-assembly/strut mount), Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue for 2013 RAV4 front support sub-assembly, KYB and Monroe application catalogues listing front strut mounts for 2013 RAV4.

Popular questions

What are the common symptoms of worn strut mounts on a 2013 RAV4?

Owners typically notice clunks over potholes, creaks at parking speeds, and a notchy or self-steering feel after turning. In some cases there’s a slight steering shudder on rough surfaces. Uneven tyre wear and a vague straight-ahead feel can also show up when the mount rubber or bearing is tired.

A quick check: with the bonnet up, have a helper turn the wheel lock-to-lock while listening at the top of each strut. Any graunching or clicking is a giveaway. Perished rubber or shiny metal contact marks around the mount are further signs it’s due.

Do the rear shocks on a 2013 RAV4 use the same kind of strut mount as the front?

No. The rear isn’t a MacPherson strut. It uses a separate spring and shock, so there’s an upper shock mount rather than a true “strut mount with bearing”. If there’s rear knocking, inspect the upper and lower shock bushings and mounts, but order rear shock mounting hardware, not a front-style strut mount.

Should the strut mounts be replaced when fitting new front struts?

It’s strongly recommended. The labour overlaps, the bearing in the mount wears alongside the strut, and fresh mounts restore steering smoothness and NVH. Replacing both sides together keeps the steering feel consistent, and an alignment afterwards ties the job off properly.