Parts for your 2010 Honda Odyssey-Thrust bearing

2010 Honda Odyssey thrust-bearing: what it does and when to worry

Yes, a thrust-bearing is used on the 2010 Honda Odyssey. Technical references including the Honda Service Manual (2010 Odyssey, Engine—Short Block), Honda parts catalogues for the J35 V6, and automatic transmission overhaul literature confirm the crankshaft’s thrust-bearing is integrated into the main bearing set (commonly at the No. 4 journal) to control end float. There’s no manual clutch release/throwout bearing on this model, because it runs a 5‑speed automatic. The auto also contains internal thrust washers/bearings, but these aren’t routine service items.

The thrust-bearing’s job is simple but critical: it keeps the crankshaft centred front-to-back in the block. It handles axial loads from the torque converter, accessory belt pull, and drivetrain changes in Drive or Reverse. By controlling crank end play, it helps protect the flexplate, front and rear main seals, oil pump alignment, and overall smoothness. When it’s healthy, drivers never think about it. When it’s not, the Odyssey can develop annoying clunks, belt misalignment, or even flexplate issues.

For day‑to‑day servicing, there’s no scheduled replacement of the thrust-bearing. It’s only replaced during an engine rebuild or if diagnostics show excessive crankshaft end play. Good practice to look after it includes:

• Regular engine oil changes with the correct spec and filter to minimise wear on the crank and mains.
• Using the right ATF (Honda ATF DW‑1 or the superseding spec) at sensible intervals to keep converter/load transitions smooth.
• Avoiding prolonged high‑RPM power braking that shoves extra axial load into the crank.
• Ensuring accessory belt tension and pulleys are in good nick, so they don’t side‑load the crank.

Warning signs worth a professional check include a fore‑and‑aft “thunk” when shifting from Park to Drive, visible crank pulley movement, recurring front or rear main seal leaks, or unexplained flexplate cracks. Proper diagnosis is done with a dial indicator on the crank to measure end play against Honda specs. If it’s out of range, replacement means engine removal, splitting the bedplate, fitting the correct-grade main bearings with thrust faces, checking clearances (often with Plastigage), and resealing with the specified sealant and torque‑angle procedures. It’s an engine builder’s job, not a quick driveway fix. Look after fluids and belt drive, and the Odyssey’s thrust-bearing generally stays happy for hundreds of thousands of kilometres.

FAQs

Does a 2010 Honda Odyssey have a clutch thrust/throwout bearing?
No. The 2010 Odyssey uses a 5‑speed automatic, so there’s no manual clutch release (throwout) bearing. The relevant “thrust” component is the engine’s crankshaft thrust-bearing integrated into the main bearing set, plus internal thrust washers/bearings inside the automatic transmission that aren’t serviced separately.

What symptoms point to a worn thrust-bearing on a 2010 Odyssey?
Common flags include a clunk or knock when shifting between Park, Drive, and Reverse, noticeable fore‑aft movement of the crank pulley, repeat front or rear main seal leaks, or flexplate damage. A technician confirms it by measuring crankshaft end play with a dial indicator against Honda’s spec.

Can the thrust-bearing be replaced without rebuilding the engine?
Not realistically. Replacing the thrust-bearing involves engine removal, opening the lower end, and installing the correct-grade main bearings with thrust faces while verifying clearances and resealing the bedplate. It’s a specialised workshop job best timed with an overhaul or when end play is out of spec.