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Parts for your 2013 Toyota Land cruiser-Oil pump
Nulon Long Life Green Coolant Concentrate 5L - LL5
Fitment Notes:
Loctite 243 Threadlocker Super Nut Lock Medium Strength Blue 10ml - 1311375
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Loctite 243 - Threadlocker - Medium Strength - Blue - 36ml - 1330906
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2013 Toyota Land Cruiser oil pump — what it does and how to look after it
Yes, the 2013 Toyota Land Cruiser is fitted with an engine oil pump. Toyota’s technical literature confirms it: the Toyota Repair Manual and New Car Features manuals for the 1VD‑FTV 4.5‑litre V8 diesel and the 1UR‑FE/3UR‑FE petrol V8s detail a crankshaft‑driven, trochoid‑type oil pump integrated into the front timing cover. The Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue also lists an oil pump assembly and related seals, pickup and relief valve components for 2013 Land Cruiser variants. So the oil pump is absolutely relevant to this model.
The oil pump’s whole job is simple but critical: move the right amount of oil, at the right pressure, to every bearing, camshaft, turbo (on 1VD‑FTV), and timing components. It builds pressure quickly on cold starts, stabilises flow at cruise, and routes excess pressure via a relief valve. On these engines it’s driven off the crank nose, so it’s reliable and keeps up with demand even under heavy towing or long outback hauls.
As part of servicing, the pump itself isn’t a routine replacement item, but looking after it is about looking after the oiling system. Sticking to the factory service schedule (and being conservative if you’re doing short trips, heavy towing, or dusty work) is the best move. Use the specified grade oil and a quality filter and keep oil change intervals in line with the logbook for Aussie and Kiwi conditions. That keeps varnish, sludge, and aeration at bay—enemies of stable oil pressure.
Tell‑tales that warrant investigation include:
- Oil pressure warning light flicker, especially at hot idle
- Rattly cold starts, ticking lifters/valvetrain, or turbo whine (1VD‑FTV)
- Metallic glitter in drained oil or the filter
If pressure is low, a proper gauge test against the workshop spec is step one. If the pump needs replacing, it’s a front‑end job: balancer off, timing cover off, and careful reassembly. Smart practice is to inspect the pickup screen, replace the pickup O‑ring, front crank seal, timing cover sealant/gaskets, and prime the new pump with clean oil before first start. Always reset adaptations where applicable and verify hot idle and cruise oil pressure after the repair. Done right, the Land Cruiser’s oil pump will keep the V8 happy for big kilometres.
Q: What are the signs of a failing oil pump on a 2013 Toyota Land Cruiser?
Low oil pressure warning lamp flickering at idle when hot.
Audible ticking from the top end after start that doesn’t quickly quieten.
Longer‑than‑normal oil light delay on cold starts.
Turbocharger whine or rumble on 1VD‑FTV due to marginal lubrication.
Knock or rumble from the bottom end under load (urgent attention needed).
Oil pressure readings below spec on a mechanical gauge test.
Elevated oil temperature on hard climbs or towing compared with usual.
Metallic sheen or fine particles in drained oil or filter element.
Intermittent timing chain rattle if the tensioner is starved of pressure.
Fault codes related to oil pressure sensor range (e.g., P0521/P0522) after confirming the sensor is good.
Noticeable drop in pressure after a very hot run that doesn’t recover at idle.
History of sludge, infrequent services, or wrong‑grade oil use.
Q: When should the oil pump be replaced on a 2013 Land Cruiser, and what else should be done at the same time?
It’s not a scheduled replacement item, it’s replaced on condition.
Confirm low pressure with a calibrated mechanical gauge first.
If pressure is below Toyota spec after verifying oil grade and level, investigate.
Rule out a faulty pressure sender before condemning the pump.
Inspect the pickup screen for sludge or silicone debris restrictions.
Replace the pickup O‑ring, a hardened O‑ring can cause aeration and low pressure.
Renew the front crank seal and timing cover sealant/gaskets during pump work.
Check chain/guides and tensioner condition while the front cover is off.
Prime the new pump with clean oil before installation and first start.
Use fresh oil and a quality filter, then verify hot idle and 2,000 rpm pressures.
If the engine has suffered bearing noise, consider deeper inspection before refit.
For vehicles that tow or work hard, keep services tight and monitor pressure trends.