Parts for your 2013 Subaru Forester-Rack boots

2013 Subaru Forester rack-boots: what they do and when to replace them

Rack-boots are absolutely fitted to the 2013 Subaru Forester. Subaru’s Factory Service Manual for the SH-series Forester (Steering: Rack and Pinion section) and the Subaru Electronic Parts Catalogue both show a pair of steering gear boots (also called rack bellows/steering rack boots) on either end of the rack. These accordion-style rubber boots protect the inner tie rods and the rack’s seals, whether the vehicle is running hydraulic power steering (as in SH) or later electric-assisted systems. So yes—rack-boots are relevant and used on this model.

On a 2013 Forester, the rack-boots’ job is to keep dust, water and road grit out of the rack and inner tie rod joints while letting the steering move freely lock-to-lock. When a boot splits or perishes, grime sneaks in, chewing out the inner tie rod and the rack’s seals. That can cause free play, clunks, notchy steering, or fluid seepage on hydraulic systems. Left too long, a cheap rubber boot job can snowball into an expensive rack replacement. During regular servicing, it’s smart to have the technician check both boots for cracks, oil saturation, missing clamps, or grease flung around the back of the hub.

Replacement is straightforward workshop fare. The wheel comes off, the outer tie rod end is released from the knuckle, and the old boot and clamps are removed. A new boot is slid on, seated squarely in its grooves, and secured with proper clamps rather than cable ties. If the rack uses a breather/vent tube linking the two boots, that tube must be reconnected to prevent pressure build-up. The outer tie rod is refitted to the exact position or thread count noted on removal, then torqued to spec. A wheel alignment is recommended afterwards, because even small changes at the tie rod can nudge toe settings and scrub out tyres.

Service tips Aussie and Kiwi owners appreciate: inspect the rack-boots every 10,000–15,000 km or at each service, replace any boot that’s torn, soft, or weeping. Don’t pack the boot with grease—only a light smear at the lip is typical, as the rack is already lubricated. If a boot has been torn for a while, get the inner tie rod and rack play checked, catching that early saves coin and keeps the car tracking straight for the long haul.

• Common symptoms of failing rack-boots: visible splits, grease fling, steering play, notchy feel, or fluid dampness (hydraulic racks).
• Best practice: fit quality OE-style boots and clamps and book a post-repair alignment.

FAQs

What are the signs my 2013 Forester’s rack-boots need replacing?
Look for cracks or splits in the bellows, grease or oil mist around the inner tie rod area, and fresh dirt tracked inside the boot. You might notice a light knock over bumps or vague steering if the inner joint starts to wear. On hydraulic systems, boot dampness mixed with grime can hint at a seal issue—worth inspecting sooner rather than later.

Will torn rack-boots fail a WOF or roadworthy?
Often, yes. In NZ a split steering boot is a common WOF fail item, and in Australia it can knock back a roadworthy, especially if contamination or play is evident. It’s a quick, relatively low-cost repair that protects the rack and helps keep tyres wearing evenly.

Do I need a wheel alignment after replacing rack-boots?
It’s highly recommended. Even if the tie rod is counted back to the same position, tiny variations can shift toe. An alignment ensures the Forester tracks straight, the steering wheel sits centred, and your tyres don’t cop uneven wear.