Parts for your 2008 Subaru Forester-Wheel studs nuts

2008 Subaru Forester wheel studs and nuts

Referencing Subaru factory service literature and the Subaru Genuine Parts catalogue for the 2008 Forester (late SG/early SH platforms), this model uses press-in wheel studs on each hub paired with separate wheel nuts (lug nuts). So wheel-studs-nuts are absolutely relevant to this vehicle, it does not use European-style wheel bolts.

On a 2008 Forester, the studs are pressed into the hub and provide the threaded anchors, while the nuts clamp the wheel to the hub face. The goal is consistent clamping force so the wheel, brake rotor and hub act as one. Subaru specifies a five-stud, 5x100 PCD layout with M12 x 1.25 thread pitch and tapered-seat nuts, which suits both factory steelies and alloys when the correct seat profile is used.

As part of routine servicing, it’s worth giving the studs and nuts a quick once-over whenever tyres are rotated or brakes are inspected. Look for rusty or pitted threads, stretched (necked) studs, or nuts that won’t run on smoothly by hand—any of these are a cue for replacement. If a stud is bent or broken, it needs sorting straight away, driving without full stud count risks rotor and hub damage.

For refitting wheels, the best practice is simple:

• Start nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading, then snug in a star pattern.
• Final-tighten with a torque wrench to the Subaru-spec value (typically around 120 N·m), then re-check after 50–100 kilometres.
• Keep threads clean and dry—no oil or anti-seize on the stud threads or the nut’s taper, as that changes clamping load.
• A tiny smear of anti-seize on the hub centre spigot (not the threads or friction faces) can help prevent wheels sticking to the hub in coastal or high-corrosion areas.

When a stud or nut needs replacing, quality matters. Choose OE or reputable aftermarket pieces in the correct M12 x 1.25 pitch with a 60-degree tapered seat and the right hex size. Pressing a stud in or out can be done with the hub on-car, but it’s easy to upset a wheel bearing if the process is rushed—many owners leave this job to a workshop with a press and proper support tools. With the right parts and correct torque, a Forester’s studs and nuts will give years of drama-free service on road or gravel.

Popular questions about 2008 Subaru Forester wheel studs and nuts

What size and thread are the wheel nuts on a 2008 Subaru Forester, and what torque should be used?
The 2008 Forester uses five M12 x 1.25 studs per hub with 60-degree tapered-seat nuts, typically with a 19 mm hex. Tighten the nuts evenly in a star pattern to about 120 N·m, then re-check after 50–100 km. Always confirm in the owner’s handbook for the exact trim and wheel option.

When should wheel studs or nuts be replaced on a 2008 Forester?
Replace them if threads are stripped, pitted or rusty, if a nut won’t hold torque, if a stud is bent, or after any over-tightening/cross-threading event. Any missing or broken stud must be replaced before driving to prevent hub and rotor damage.

Should anti-seize be used on Subaru wheel stud threads?
No. Subaru service information calls for clean, dry threads because lubrication alters the clamping force for a given torque. If corrosion is a concern, a light smear on the hub centre spigot (not the threads or the nut’s seat) can help prevent the wheel sticking to the hub.