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Parts for your 2012 Toyota Fortuner-Strut mounts

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SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

$308
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SAS Strut Mount - MT961

SAS Strut Mount - MT961

$383
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2012 Toyota Fortuner strut mounts — what they do and when to replace them

Based on Toyota’s technical literature for the AN50/AN60 platform (Fortuner/Hilux), the 2012 Toyota Fortuner uses a front double-wishbone suspension with a coil-over shock unit. The assembly is topped by an upper support/insulator often called a “strut top” or “strut mount” in parts catalogues (Toyota EPC and major aftermarket catalogues from brands like Monroe and Pedders). It’s not a MacPherson strut with a steering bearing, instead, it’s a robust rubberised top support that locates and isolates the coil-over shock. The rear uses separate shocks and coils on a live axle, so no rear strut mounts are fitted.

For the Fortuner, the front “strut mount” is the top support that connects the coil-over shock to the body tower and isolates vibration. It takes the vertical loads, helps keep the ride quiet, and prevents harshness from rough Aussie and Kiwi roads and outback corrugations reaching the cabin. Because the Fortuner’s front end is double wishbone, the shock doesn’t rotate with steering, so there’s no turntable-style bearing in the mount like you’d see on a MacPherson setup. That said, the rubber and bonded components still age, crack and compress over time, especially with towing, accessories up front (bullbars, winches) or regular gravel-road use.

Servicing the vehicle is a good time to give these mounts some attention. A workshop should look for perished rubber, torn bonding, deformed or collapsed mounts, or shiny witness marks that suggest movement. If shocks are being replaced, doing the strut tops at the same time saves labour and helps the new dampers work properly. Always replace mounts in pairs across the axle for consistent ride height and feel, and stick with quality OE or reputable aftermarket parts rated for local conditions.

Tell-tale signs the mounts are tired include:

  • Clunks or knocks over speed bumps and ruts
  • Squeaks or groans at low speed on driveway entries
  • Sharper-than-normal ride or vibration through the dash
  • Visible cracking/compression of the rubber at the top hat

Replacement is straightforward for a trained tech but involves compressing the coil spring, so proper equipment and safety practice are a must. After refitting, a wheel alignment is recommended to dial in camber/caster and keep tyre wear tidy. There’s no fixed KM interval, but many Fortuners see mount refresh somewhere between 100,000 and 200,000 km depending on load and road use. As a rule of thumb, if the front shocks are due, budget for new strut tops as well. For NZ owners, this often lines up neatly with WOF advisories for noise or bush deterioration.

  • Tip: If the vehicle runs a lift or heavier accessories, choose heavy-duty mounts designed to cope with higher static loads.

Popular questions about 2012 Toyota Fortuner strut mounts

Do 2012 Fortuners have strut mount bearings?

They have front strut top mounts, but not steering bearings like a MacPherson strut. The Fortuner’s double-wishbone front end means the shock doesn’t turn with the wheels, so the mount is a rubberised support/insulator rather than a rotating bearing assembly.

That’s why symptoms are mostly knocks, squeaks and harshness rather than steering bind or notchiness.

When should the strut mounts be replaced?

There’s no fixed schedule. Have them inspected at regular services, and strongly consider replacement whenever the front shocks are changed. Many owners see good results replacing mounts somewhere between 100,000 and 200,000 km, sooner if the vehicle works hard off-road or carries extra front-end weight.

Any obvious cracking, deformation, or noise over bumps is a cue to book the job sooner rather than later.

Can they be replaced at home?

It’s possible for a competent DIYer with the right gear, but the coil spring must be safely compressed. Most owners leave it to a workshop with proper compressors, torque tools and alignment equipment.

If tackling it at home, use heavy-duty compressors, follow torque specs, and get a wheel alignment immediately after.

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