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Parts for your 2012 Suzuki Splash-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2012 Suzuki Splash engine mount: what it does, when to replace, and how to keep it happy
Yes, a 2012 Suzuki Splash uses engine mounts. Technical references that cover this model—including the Suzuki Workshop/Service Manual for Splash (K10B/K12B engines), the Suzuki Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC), and equivalent documentation for its twin, the Opel/Vauxhall Agila B—identify multiple mounting insulators and brackets: a right-hand (timing side) engine mount, a left-hand transaxle mount, and a rear torque rod/“roll stopper”. Reputable aftermarket catalogues also list these mounts for 2008–2014 Splash, further confirming fitment.
On the Splash, the engine mounts do the heavy lifting of holding the transversely mounted engine and gearbox in place while soaking up vibration and driveline shove. They keep the engine aligned so the driveshafts, exhaust flex, and shifter cables aren’t copping extra stress. Good mounts mean less buzz through the cabin and a smoother take-off at the lights.
Typical Splash setup is three mounts: right-hand engine mount up near the timing cover, left-hand mount at the transaxle, and a rear torque rod underneath to control fore–aft movement. Petrol and diesel variants may use slightly different designs, but the job is the same—support and isolation.
Signs it’s time to sort the mounts include a grumbly vibration at idle in Drive, a thud on take-off or when lifting off, excessive engine rock under the bonnet, visible cracks or tearing in the rubber, or oily, swollen rubber (oil contamination kills mounts). Some mounts are fluid-filled, if you spot seepage, that’s a red flag.
There’s no fixed replacement interval, but checking them every service from about 60,000 km is smart. During servicing, look for perished rubber, collapsed height, and loose or rusted fasteners. Keep an eye on engine oil or coolant leaks—fluids accelerate mount failure. If one mount has obviously failed, plan to inspect the others closely, it’s common to find the rear torque rod tired too.
Replacement is straightforward with the right gear: safely support the engine from above or below, never by levering on alloy housings. Fit the new mount loosely, settle the powertrain at normal ride height, then torque all fasteners to the factory specs from the Suzuki manual. Some bolts are torque-to-yield on certain variants—replace any single‑use fasteners as specified. After fitting, a quick road test for vibration and clunks will tell the story.
Going OEM or a quality brand pays off in NVH and longevity. A crook mount left too long can fatigue the exhaust flex joint and CVs, so it’s worth getting on top of early.
- Common symptoms: vibration at idle, clunks on shifts, visible cracks, fluid leak from a hydro mount
- Typical count: three mounts (RH engine, LH transaxle, rear torque rod)
- Service tip: inspect at each service from ~60,000 km and after any oil leak
Popular questions
How many engine mounts are on a 2012 Suzuki Splash?
Most 2012 Splash petrol models run three: a right-hand engine mount, a left-hand transaxle mount, and a rear torque rod. Some diesel or market variants can use a slightly different torque rod design. Checking by VIN against the Suzuki EPC is the safest way to confirm what’s fitted.
Is it safe to drive with a worn engine mount?
Short trips may be possible, but it’s not ideal. Excess movement can stress the exhaust flex, driveshafts, and shifter cables, and you’ll feel more vibration. If there’s heavy knocking or you can see the engine shifting about, park it and get the mount replaced promptly.
What does a failing Splash engine mount feel like?
Expect a rougher idle, a thunk when selecting Drive or on take-off, and a droning vibration through the steering wheel or seats. If the mount is fluid-filled, you might also spot oily residue on the mount body.