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Parts for your 2011 Toyota Vitz|yaris-Oil seals

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Nulon Engine Oil Stop Leak 300ml - ESL
30%OFF

Nulon Engine Oil Stop Leak 300ml - ESL

$27.30
$39
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MaxiTrac 47 Piece Tyre Repair Kit
30%OFF

MaxiTrac 47 Piece Tyre Repair Kit

$48.30
$69
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Castrol Petrol Engine Flush 300ml - 3441131
55%OFF

Castrol Petrol Engine Flush 300ml - 3441131

$12
$23
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Castrol Diesel Engine Flush 300ml - 3441133
55%OFF

Castrol Diesel Engine Flush 300ml - 3441133

$12
$23
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Nulon Radiator Stop Leak 300mL - R50
30%OFF

Nulon Radiator Stop Leak 300mL - R50

$14.70
$21
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Big Wipes Heavy-Duty Wipes 80 Pack - 2420
20%OFF

Big Wipes Heavy-Duty Wipes 80 Pack - 2420

$32.80
$41
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LIQUI MOLY Engine Flush Plus 300ml - 2784

LIQUI MOLY Engine Flush Plus 300ml - 2784

$27
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Penrite Engine Flush 375ml - ADEF375

Penrite Engine Flush 375ml - ADEF375

$27
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K&N Oil Filter - HP-1008

K&N Oil Filter - HP-1008

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$35
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Penrite Radiator Flush Additive 375mL - ADRF375

Penrite Radiator Flush Additive 375mL - ADRF375

$27
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K-SEAL Ultimate Head Gasket Repair - K3501

K-SEAL Ultimate Head Gasket Repair - K3501

$102
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K&N Performance Intake Kit - HP-1003

K&N Performance Intake Kit - HP-1003

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$36
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Kelpro Oil Seal - 98663

Kelpro Oil Seal - 98663

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$45
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Rislone Rear Main Seal Repair 500ml - 44240

Rislone Rear Main Seal Repair 500ml - 44240

$38
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LIQUI MOLY Engine Oil Resealer 300ml - 2782

LIQUI MOLY Engine Oil Resealer 300ml - 2782

$29
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Showing 1 - 39 of 2223 products

2011 Toyota Vitz/Yaris oil seals — what they do and how to look after them

Yes, oil seals are very much a thing on the 2011 Toyota Vitz/Yaris. Toyota’s service literature for the 1NZ-FE/1NR-FE engines and associated transaxles (Toyota Repair Manual and New Car Features) plus the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue for the XP90/XP130 series list multiple oil seals: front and rear crankshaft seals, transaxle/drive shaft output seals, and others used to keep engine oil and transmission fluid where they belong. So, oil seals are fitted to this vehicle and they matter.

Their job is simple but vital: stop lubricants sneaking out and keep dust and grit from getting in. That protects bearings and gears, keeps oil pressure stable, and prevents messy leaks on the driveway or onto belts and clutches. On a 2011 Vitz/Yaris, typical seal locations include:

  • Crankshaft front (behind the crank pulley) and rear main seal (between engine and gearbox)
  • Transaxle output shaft seals where the drive shafts/CV shafts plug in
  • Other rotary seals within the transmission assembly, some variants may also use cam and valve stem seals

Oil seals aren’t a scheduled replacement item, they’re replaced when they leak or while other work is underway. For this model, smart times to tackle them include clutch replacement (rear main seal on manuals), transmission removal (automatics), or when the timing cover is off (front crank area). A tidy workshop will also check the PCV/breather system—excess crankcase pressure can push past even a new seal.

As part of regular servicing, it’s worth a quick look for:

  • Fresh oil mist around the crank pulley, bellhousing join, or transaxle outputs
  • Burning oil smell after a drive, or drips under the car
  • Low engine oil or gearbox oil/ATF level between services

If a seal is weeping, sort it before it turns into a proper leak. Replacement is straightforward for a trained tech: use a seal driver or the correct SST, set the seal square and to spec’d depth, lightly oil the lip, and inspect the shaft surface for grooves. Genuine or high-quality aftermarket seals are worth it, and matching the correct fluid (e.g., the Toyota-specified engine oil grade and the right ATF/gear oil) helps longevity.

For Aussie and Kiwi driving—lots of short trips and heat—getting the Vitz/Yaris checked every 10,000 km or six months is a good rhythm. Catching a weep early is cheaper than cleaning up a leak later.

Popular questions about 2011 Toyota Vitz/Yaris oil seals

How can someone tell if an oil seal is leaking on a 2011 Vitz/Yaris?

They’ll often spot damp, fresh oil around the crank pulley, the join between engine and gearbox, or where the drive shafts enter the transaxle. A light burning oil smell after a run, or oil droplets on the driveway, are classic clues. Keeping an eye on engine and transmission fluid levels between services also helps catch a problem early.

A workshop can dye-test with UV and clean the area, then re-check after a short drive to pinpoint the exact seal.

Is it safe to keep driving with a minor oil seal leak?

Short term, a light weep might not strand the driver, but it can worsen without warning. Leaks can contaminate belts, clutches, or sensors and lead to bigger bills. If it’s leaving drips or the level is dropping, it’s best to book it in soon and avoid long, hot drives until checked.

Always monitor fluid levels, if oil drops quickly, stop driving and get it towed.

When’s the best time to replace the rear main seal on this model?

When the gearbox is already out—like during a clutch change on manuals or transmission work on autos. Labour overlaps make it cost-effective to fit a new rear main seal proactively, even if the old one isn’t leaking yet.

Ask the workshop to inspect the crank surface and confirm the correct seal orientation and depth during the job.

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