Parts for your 2010 Toyota Blade-Strut mounts

2010 Toyota Blade strut mounts: what they do and when to replace them

Based on Toyota’s E150-platform technical literature (New Car Features manual) and the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue, the 2010 Toyota Blade runs a MacPherson strut front suspension that uses a dedicated strut mount (also called a front suspension support/insulator with bearing). Major aftermarket catalogues (e.g., KYB and Monroe) also list front strut mount kits for the Blade/Auris of this generation. So yes—strut mounts are absolutely relevant on the 2010 Toyota Blade, at least on the front axle.

On this model, the front strut mount does three key jobs: it locates the top of the strut in the body tower, it isolates road noise and vibration with a rubber insulator, and it lets the strut rotate smoothly for steering via an integrated bearing. When the mount or bearing wears, drivers tend to notice clunks over small bumps, a creak or notchiness when turning the wheel, vague steering feel, or a front-end thud on take-off and braking.

Given Aussie and Kiwi conditions—heat, UV, and plenty of coarse-chip roads—it’s smart servicing to consider the mounts whenever front struts are replaced, and to inspect them from about 100,000–150,000 km. Cracked rubber, rusty or gritty bearings, or play at the top hat are all green lights for replacement. Best practice is to swap them in pairs, because wear side-to-side is usually similar.

Replacement tips a good workshop will follow:

• Use a quality spring compressor and observe all safety steps.
• Renew the mount, bearing (if separate), dust boot and bump stop together to save future labour.
• Torque fasteners with the vehicle at normal ride height to avoid bushing wind-up.
• Finish with a proper wheel alignment, camber/caster and steering centring can shift after strut work.

For owners chasing a tighter feel, OE-quality mounts maintain the Blade’s balance of comfort and precision, some “stiffer” aftermarket options can firm things up but may add a touch of NVH. If there’s a knock that appeared after new struts, don’t overlook the mount nuts, the centre nut preload, or the bearing orientation.

Worth noting: the Blade’s rear end isn’t a strut—it's a torsion beam with separate shock and spring—so there’s no rear “strut mount” per se, just upper shock mounts that are simpler and typically quieter when worn.

FAQs

What are the common signs the Blade’s front strut mounts are worn?

Light clunks over small, repeated bumps, a creak or notch when turning the wheel at parking speeds, vague on-centre feel, and a dull thud on take-off or braking are classic signs. Uneven front tyre wear or steering that doesn’t self-centre cleanly can also point to binding or tired mount bearings.

A quick check: with the car safely on the ground, have someone rock the steering while listening at the towers. Any graunching or delayed response suggests the mount/bearing is due.

Should strut mounts be replaced when fitting new struts?

Usually, yes. The labour overlaps, and old mounts can transfer noise into fresh struts or fail soon after. Replacing the mount, bearing, dust boots and bump stops as a set restores steering feel and keeps NVH low. It also helps protect the new struts, especially on rougher Aussie and NZ roads.

If the existing mounts are recent and pass inspection (no cracks, no play, smooth bearing), they can be reused—but it’s the exception, not the rule.

Does the 2010 Blade have rear strut mounts?

No. The rear uses a torsion-beam layout with separate shocks and springs, so there’s no rear “strut” or strut mount. The rear has shock absorber upper mounts, which are simpler and cheaper, and can be replaced if they squeak or thump.

Front strut mounts do the heavy steering work, the rear mounts are just isolators for the shocks.