Parts for your 2011 Toyota Crown-Strut mounts

2011 Toyota Crown strut mounts — what’s fitted and what to service

Based on Toyota’s technical literature for the S200-series Crown (model years around 2008–2012) — including the New Car Features guide and the factory Repair Manual for the front and rear suspension — the 2011 Toyota Crown runs a double wishbone front suspension and a multi-link rear. That setup does not use MacPherson struts, so traditional strut mounts (the steering-bearing type you’d see on many front‑drive cars) aren’t part of the design.

Why no strut mounts? In a MacPherson layout, the damper/spring assembly is also the steering and wheel-locating “strut”, so it needs a strut mount with an integrated bearing at the top to let the assembly rotate as you steer. The S200 Crown’s double wishbone front end instead locates the wheel with upper and lower control arms, while the damper and spring simply manage motion and loads. Steering rotation happens at the knuckle via ball joints, not through a strut top bearing. As a result, there’s no conventional strut mount to replace.

At the rear, the multi-link arrangement also separates wheel location from the damper. You’ll still find upper damper insulators/bushes and related hardware, but again, not a strut mount in the MacPherson sense.

What should owners look at instead of “strutmounts” on a 2011 Toyota Crown?

• Front upper and lower control arm bushes and ball joints (key wear items affecting alignment, tyre wear, and steering feel).
• Front and rear damper (shock absorber) upper insulators/bushes and cushions (these can harden or collapse, causing knocks over bumps).
• Stabiliser bar (sway bar) links and bushes (common source of clunks and squeaks).
• Coil springs and dampers themselves (loss of damping or sagging springs lead to float, dive, and uneven tyre wear).

Typical symptoms that make people search for “2011toyotacrown strutmounts” — like a clunk up front, vague turn‑in, or a rubbery squeak at low speed over bumps — are usually traced to tired control arm bushes/ball joints, worn stabiliser links, or perished damper top insulators, not a failed strut mount. During servicing, a workshop should:

1. Inspect all control arm bushes and ball joints for play, cracking, or leaking grease.
2. Check damper top insulators for splits or compression set, replace in pairs if worn.
3. Assess dampers for leaks and rebound/compression control, match replacements to OE spec.
4. Torque all fasteners at ride height to avoid preloading bushes.
5. Finish with a full four‑wheel alignment to factory specs.

For Aussie and Kiwi roads, a good rule of thumb is to give the Crown’s front and rear bushes, ball joints, links, and damper mounts a proper look every 40,000–60,000 kilometres, sooner if it sees plenty of rough chip or potholes. If anything’s marginal, replacing components in axle pairs keeps the ride balanced and tidy, and helps protect those tyres.

Popular questions about 2011toyotacrown strutmounts

Does a 2011 Toyota Crown actually have strut mounts?

No. The S200 Crown uses a double wishbone front and multi‑link rear, so it doesn’t use MacPherson struts or their steering-bearing top mounts. It has damper upper insulators/bushes, but those aren’t “strut mounts” in the MacPherson sense.

What should be replaced if someone thinks the strut mounts are worn on a Crown?

Look to front upper/lower control arm bushes and ball joints, stabiliser links/bushes, and the damper upper insulators. Those are the usual culprits for knocks, vibration, or vague steering feel on a Crown of this vintage.

How can they tell if the damper top insulators or control arm bushes are gone?

Tell‑tales include a dull clunk over speed humps, steering kickback on sharp edges, uneven tyre wear, or wandering on the motorway. A technician can lever-test bushes and check for play in ball joints, and inspect damper tops for splits or collapse.