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Parts for your 2010 Suzuki Sx4-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2010 Suzuki SX4 engine mount — purpose, care, and when to replace
Engine mounts are absolutely used on the 2010 Suzuki SX4. Factory technical literature (Suzuki SX4/EY-GY series Workshop/Service Manual – Engine Mounting section) and the Suzuki Electronic Parts Catalogue both show multiple mounts supporting and locating the engine and transmission. Reputable aftermarket catalogues for the SX4 also list specific right-hand engine mounts, transmission mounts, and torque/roll stopper mounts for 2010 models, confirming fitment across common engines (M16A 1.6L, J20B 2.0L) and both FWD and AWD variants.
On a 2010 SX4, the engine mounts do a simple but critical job: they hold the engine in place, isolate vibration, and control movement under throttle, braking, and gearchanges. Typically there’s a right-hand engine mount on the timing side, a left-hand transmission mount, and one or two torque/roll stopper mounts at the front/rear of the engine cradle. Together they keep the cabin calm and protect driveline parts from shock loads.
When they age, the rubber can perish or split, and hydraulic-style mounts can leak. That’s when drivers start to notice extra vibration at idle, a thump on take-off, or the gear lever and steering shuddering under load. Left too long, a collapsed mount can stress exhaust flex joints, CVs, and even other mounts.
As part of routine servicing on an SX4, it’s smart to give the mounts a quick look every 20,000–30,000 kilometres: check for cracked rubber, sagging, shiny witness marks where metal has contacted, or fluid seepage from any hydraulic mount. With the bonnet up, a gentle power-brake test can hint at excessive engine movement—just don’t overdo it.
Replacement is straightforward for a competent home mechanic, but a hoist or engine support bar makes life easier. The engine must be safely supported before a mount is unbolted—under the sump with a jack and a block of wood is common practice, taking care not to deform the pan. Fit the new mount, start all fasteners by hand, settle the engine, then torque to the workshop spec. On high-kilometre SX4s, replacing the opposing torque mount at the same time helps keep NVH balanced. Many owners in Australia and New Zealand prefer quality OEM or OE-equivalent rubber for comfort, stiffer aftermarket options can add vibration. After replacement, recheck fasteners after a few drives and listen for any new noises.
- Common symptoms: harsh vibration at idle, clunk on take-off or shift, excessive engine rock, visible cracks or leaks on the mount.
- Good practice: inspect at regular services, support the engine properly, use correct torque, and consider replacing mounts in pairs where practical.
Popular questions about 2010 Suzuki SX4 engine mounts
How many engine mounts does a 2010 Suzuki SX4 have?
The SX4 generally uses three to four mounts depending on engine and drivetrain. Expect a right-hand engine mount, a left-hand transmission mount, and at least one torque/roll stopper mount at the front or rear. FWD and AWD layouts are slightly different, but the idea is the same—support and control.
How long do SX4 engine mounts last?
Anything from 100,000 to 200,000 kilometres is common, but climate, driving style, and oil leaks make a big difference. If there’s noticeable vibration, clunks on take-off, or visible deterioration, it’s time to test and replace as needed rather than waiting for a fixed interval.
Is it safe to drive with a failed engine mount?
It’ll usually still drive, but it’s not ideal. Excess movement can damage the exhaust flex, stress CV joints, and hammer the remaining mounts. For comfort and to avoid knock-on repairs, it’s best to sort it sooner rather than later.