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Parts for your 2010 Subaru Impreza-Brake booster
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 80 Series (2 Bolt Brake Master Cylinder) - DBAMV1003
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 80 Series (4 Bolt Brake Master Cylinder) - DBAMV1004
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 70 Series 8/1999 - 8/12 - DBAMV1002
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2010 Subaru Impreza Brake Booster — Purpose, Service and Replacement
Yes, the 2010 Subaru Impreza is fitted with a brake booster. This is confirmed by Subaru’s factory service information for the 2010 MY Impreza/WRX/STI (Brake section) and Subaru OEM parts catalogues for GE/GH/GR/GV chassis, which list a vacuum-type brake booster assembly for petrol and diesel variants. The diesel models use a vacuum pump to supply the booster, while petrol and turbo petrol models draw manifold vacuum through a one-way check valve.
The brake booster’s job is simple but vital: it uses engine vacuum to multiply the force a driver applies at the pedal, making braking lighter, more progressive and easier to modulate in stop–start traffic or during emergency braking. On the 2010 Impreza, the booster sits on the firewall behind the master cylinder and typically uses a dual-diaphragm design for strong assist without needing a huge pedal effort.
Common signs it’s on the way out include a hard brake pedal, a longer stopping distance, a hissing noise around the pedal or under the bonnet, the pedal not dropping slightly when the engine starts, or an engine idle that changes when the brake is pressed (indicative of a vacuum leak). If any of this shows up, it’s worth a proper check.
As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to:
- Inspect the vacuum hose and the one-way check valve for cracks, softness, oil contamination and correct orientation.
- Listen for vacuum leaks and check pedal free play and stop-lamp switch operation.
- Keep brake fluid off the booster shell and firewall, clean any spills promptly.
Replacement is straightforward for a trained tech. The master cylinder can usually be unbolted and moved aside without opening the brake lines, avoiding a bleed. The booster is then removed from the cabin side at the pedal box. On refit, the pushrod length and pedal height/free play must be set to Subaru specifications, and all fasteners tightened to factory torque. If the hydraulic lines are opened, a full system bleed is required with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid as specified for the vehicle.
Refer to the Subaru service manual and STIS procedures for the model-specific steps and specs—getting the pushrod and pedal setup right makes a noticeable difference to pedal feel and braking confidence.
Popular questions about 2010 Subaru Impreza brake boosters
What are the most common symptoms of a failing brake booster?
A noticeably harder brake pedal, a faint hiss when pressing the pedal, increased stopping distance, or the pedal not sinking slightly when the engine starts are the usual giveaways. If the engine idle stumbles when the pedal is pressed, there’s likely a vacuum leak at the booster hose or check valve.
Can it be driven with a bad brake booster?
Technically yes, but it’s not recommended. Braking will require much more leg effort and distances can blow out, especially in an emergency. If a vacuum leak is present, engine performance may also suffer. It’s best to have it inspected and repaired promptly.
Is the WRX/STI booster different to the base Impreza?
Many WRX/STI models use a booster and master cylinder package tuned for their larger brakes and pedal feel targets. Fitment should follow the exact model and VIN, mixing parts across variants can alter pedal travel and assist, so stick with the correct unit listed in the Subaru parts catalogue.