Parts for your 2010 Honda Elysion-Camshaft sensor

2010 Honda Elysion Camshaft Sensor — What It Does, Where It Lives, and How to Look After It

The 2010 Honda Elysion is fitted with a camshaft position sensor (CMP). This is documented in Honda’s technical literature and parts catalogues for the Elysion RR-series (RR1–RR5), covering both the 2.4-litre K24A i-VTEC four-cylinder and the J-series V6 options. Honda service manual sections for PGM-FI and i-VTEC also show the CMP sensor’s role in cam phasing and sequential injection on these engines, confirming it’s very much relevant to this model year.

On this Elysion, the camshaft sensor tells the ECU exactly where the camshaft is in its rotation. That info pairs with the crank sensor so the ECU can fire injectors and coils at the right moment, and it’s essential for i-VTEC/VTC to adjust valve timing on the fly. The result is smooth cold starts, tidy idle, strong mid‑range pull, and decent fuel economy under Aussie and Kiwi driving conditions.

When the sensor or its wiring plays up, drivers can see a check engine light and notice rough starting, misfires, a flat spot, or i‑VTEC refusing to wake up. Common fault codes include P0340, P0341 and related CMP circuit/performance codes.

Servicing-wise, the CMP itself is solid-state and doesn’t need routine replacement, but a quick look during regular services (every 10,000–15,000 km) goes a long way. Check the plug and loom that run over the rocker cover—heat and oil can make them brittle. Make sure the connector is clean, pins are tight, and the sensor’s O‑ring isn’t weeping. A light wipe to remove dust or oil film is fine, avoid soaking it in cleaners.

• Location: K24A — front/side of the cylinder head near the timing chain end. J‑series V6 — typically one sensor per bank (front and rear heads).
• Replacement tips: Disconnect the battery, unclip the connector, remove the single retaining bolt, swap the O‑ring, lightly oil it, refit, and tighten snugly to spec (about 9–10 N·m). Clear codes and perform an idle relearn if needed.
• Parts guidance: Use the correct Honda CMP for your engine variant (K24A vs J‑series). Genuine parts or high‑quality equivalents help avoid nuisance faults.

Expect a competent DIYer to handle the job in 15–30 minutes with basic spanners. If the engine harness is suspect or there’s oil intrusion into the connector, it’s worth getting an auto sparky to chase the fault before tossing new parts at it.

Handy signs to book it in: hard starting when warm, erratic idle, sudden loss of i‑VTEC shove, or a MIL with P0340/P0341. Sorting the CMP promptly protects catalytic converters from misfire damage and keeps fuel use in check.

Popular questions about 2010 Honda Elysion camshaft sensors

Where is the camshaft sensor on a 2010 Honda Elysion?
On the 2.4 K24A, it’s mounted on the timing chain end of the cylinder head, easy to spot near the rocker cover. On the J‑series V6, there are usually two—one on the front bank and one on the rear bank—so access varies. A torch and mirror help on the rear bank.

Can a camshaft sensor be cleaned, or should it be replaced?
It’s a sealed Hall‑effect sensor, so there’s no internal service. You can clean the exterior and connector, and replace a hard or flattened O‑ring. If it’s setting repeat codes after wiring checks, replacement is the go. Always inspect the loom before fitting a new unit.

Will a bad camshaft sensor disable i‑VTEC?
Yes. If the ECU can’t trust cam phase data, it may lock out i‑VTEC/VTC and run a safer timing map. You’ll feel a slump in mid‑range power, see the MIL, and potentially log P0340/P0341. Fixing the CMP fault restores normal operation.