Parts for your 2010 Holden Commodore-Engine mount

2010 Holden Commodore engine-mount — purpose, servicing and replacement

Yes, an engine-mount is absolutely used on the 2010 Holden Commodore (VE Series). GM Holden service information for VE models and the 2010 parts EPC list left and right engine mounts (insulators) on all V6 and V8 variants, with a separate transmission mount at the rear. Reputable catalogues used in workshops across Australia and New Zealand—such as GM Genuine Parts/ACDelco and Mackay Consolidated—also specify direct-fit mounts for 2010 VE sedans, wagons and utes. So it’s a relevant, fitted component on this vehicle.

On a 2010 Holden Commodore, the engine-mount’s job is to hold the engine securely to the front subframe while soaking up vibration and controlling engine movement under throttle, braking and cornering. Most are rubber or hydraulic (fluid-filled) mounts tuned for NVH, so the cabin stays quiet and smooth while the driveline stays aligned with the exhaust, cooling fan shroud and driveshafts. If an engine-mount starts to sag, split or leak, the engine can rock around, causing shudders at idle, thumps on take-off and even strained hoses or exhaust knocks.

As part of servicing of your 2010-holden-commodore engine-mount, it’s smart to have a quick visual and feel check at regular service intervals. Look for cracked rubber, collapsed height, shiny metal-to-metal contact, or oily residue from a leaking hydraulic mount. Oil leaks from rocker covers or the power steering can also accelerate rubber mount failure, so fix those early.

When replacement time comes, most techs suggest doing mounts in pairs to keep balance and NVH tuning consistent. Support the engine from above or below (with a proper support bar or a jack and timber under the sump), loosen the mount-to-engine and mount-to-crossmember fasteners, swap the mount, then torque to manufacturer spec with the engine settled at its natural height. On V8s, keep heat shields in place, on V6s, check nearby hoses and the exhaust clearance. After the job, road-test for idle vibration and load thumps, and recheck fastener torque after a short shakedown.

There’s no fixed replacement schedule, many last 120,000–200,000 km, but heavy stop–start use, track days, harsh roads or fluid leaks can bring that forward. If the Commodore feels buzzy in Drive at the lights, or clunks when shifting from Reverse to Drive, that’s the cue to get the mounts inspected.

• Common symptoms: vibration at idle, clunk on take-off, engine rocking, fluid leaking from a mount, misaligned fan shroud or intake.
• Workshop tip: replace in pairs, verify heat shielding, and check the transmission mount at the same time.

Popular questions about 2010 Holden Commodore engine-mount

How do I know my VE Commodore’s engine-mounts are worn?

Tell-tale signs include a rougher-than-usual idle in Drive, a thump when you get on or off the throttle, or a shimmy as you shift from Reverse to Drive. Pop the bonnet and gently blip the throttle, if the engine lifts or twists noticeably, a mount may be soft or torn. Hydraulic mounts can also weep fluid—any oily stain on the mount body is a red flag.

How often should engine-mounts be replaced?

There’s no set interval. Many last well past 120,000 km, but hard use, heat and oil contamination shorten their life. A quick check every service is wise. If one side has failed or sagged, replacing both engine-mounts helps keep vibration in check and preserves driveline alignment.

Can I keep driving with a failed engine-mount?

Short trips might be possible, but it’s not ideal. Excess engine movement can stress exhaust joints, hoses and the transmission mount, and it can hammer the subframe over bumps. If a mount is collapsed or leaking, plan a replacement soon to avoid extra wear and tear.