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Parts for your 2010 Ford Transit-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2010 Ford Transit engine mount — what it does and when to replace it
Technical sources confirm the 2010 Ford Transit is fitted with engine mounts. The Ford Workshop Manual for Transit V347/V348 (2006–2013) details removal and installation of the right-hand engine support insulator, left-hand gearbox mount and rear torque mount, and the Ford EPC/Microcat parts catalogue lists these mounts across the 2.2, 2.4 and 3.2 Duratorq TDCi engines. The Haynes Ford Transit Diesel (2006–2013) manual also includes procedures for engine mounting removal/refit. So yes — engine mounts are absolutely used on the 2010 Transit.
On a 2010 Ford Transit, the engine mounts do the heavy lifting behind the scenes. They carry the weight of the engine and gearbox, keep the driveline correctly aligned and soak up vibration so the cab doesn’t buzz like a beehive. They also control twist when the driver gets on the throttle, which protects exhaust joints, hoses and wiring from strain. Typically, this Transit runs a main engine-side mount, a transmission-side mount and a rear torque mount (often called a dog-bone) to manage fore–aft movement.
Servicing-wise, mounts aren’t a scheduled replacement item, but they should be inspected at every service. Oil contamination, age and rough roads can crack the rubber or collapse the fluid-filled (hydraulic) style mounts, while the torque mount bush is known to split on higher‑kilometre vans. If the van’s idle feels harsh, there’s a clunk on take-off, or the gear lever shudders more than usual, it’s time for a closer look.
Replacement is straightforward for a pro with the right kit. Support the engine and gearbox safely, never jack under the sump, and renew any single‑use stretch bolts. It’s smart to replace mounts in pairs if they’re the same age, and to recheck alignment and clearances around the exhaust and driveshafts after fitment. A brief road test with a couple of firm accelerations will confirm the clunk’s gone and NVH is back to normal.
Tips for owners across Australia and New Zealand:
- Inspect mounts every 10,000–15,000 km or at each service, especially if the van tows or carries heavy loads.
- Fix any engine or gearbox oil leaks promptly — oil shortens mount life.
- Watch for excess engine rock when blipping the throttle with the bonnet up — a giveaway for a tired torque mount.
Popular questions about 2010 Ford Transit engine mounts
How long do engine mounts last on a 2010 Transit?
On most Transits they’ll see 120,000–200,000 km, but heavy urban delivery work, lots of idling or oil leaks can shorten that. Regular inspections help catch a sagging or cracked mount before it causes extra vibration or damages exhaust flex joints.
What are the symptoms of a failing engine mount?
Common signs include a thump on take‑off, extra vibration in the seat or steering at idle, more drivetrain shudder when shifting, and visible cracks or separation in the rubber. The rear torque mount bush often splits first, showing up as fore–aft clunks.
Can you keep driving with a bad mount?
You can usually limp it, but it’s not ideal. A failed mount can increase NVH, stress hoses and wiring and, if left too long, contribute to premature wear of exhaust components and CV joints. Better to book it in and sort it before other bits cop the load.