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Parts for your 2007 Toyota Land cruiser-Oil seals

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Nulon Engine Oil Stop Leak 300ml - ESL
30%OFF

Nulon Engine Oil Stop Leak 300ml - ESL

$27.30
$39
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MaxiTrac 47 Piece Tyre Repair Kit
30%OFF

MaxiTrac 47 Piece Tyre Repair Kit

$48.30
$69
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Castrol Petrol Engine Flush 300ml - 3441131
55%OFF

Castrol Petrol Engine Flush 300ml - 3441131

$12
$23
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Castrol Diesel Engine Flush 300ml - 3441133
55%OFF

Castrol Diesel Engine Flush 300ml - 3441133

$12
$23
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Explore 4WD & Adventure

Nulon Radiator Stop Leak 300mL - R50
30%OFF

Nulon Radiator Stop Leak 300mL - R50

$14.70
$21
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Big Wipes Heavy-Duty Wipes 80 Pack - 2420
20%OFF

Big Wipes Heavy-Duty Wipes 80 Pack - 2420

$32.80
$41
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LIQUI MOLY Engine Flush Plus 300ml - 2784

LIQUI MOLY Engine Flush Plus 300ml - 2784

$27
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Penrite Engine Flush 375ml - ADEF375

Penrite Engine Flush 375ml - ADEF375

$27
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Penrite Radiator Flush Additive 375mL - ADRF375

Penrite Radiator Flush Additive 375mL - ADRF375

$27
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K-SEAL Ultimate Head Gasket Repair - K3501

K-SEAL Ultimate Head Gasket Repair - K3501

$102
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LIQUI MOLY Engine Oil Resealer 300ml - 2782

LIQUI MOLY Engine Oil Resealer 300ml - 2782

$29
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Penrite Lifter and Tappet Fix 375ml - ADLTF375

Penrite Lifter and Tappet Fix 375ml - ADLTF375

$31
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Rislone Rear Main Seal Repair 500ml - 44240

Rislone Rear Main Seal Repair 500ml - 44240

$38
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Penrite Engine Oil Stop Leak 375ml - ADESL375

Penrite Engine Oil Stop Leak 375ml - ADESL375

$24
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Penrite Fork Oil 10 1L - MCFO10001

Penrite Fork Oil 10 1L - MCFO10001

$48
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K&N Air Filter Wrap - HP-1002

K&N Air Filter Wrap - HP-1002

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$35
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Penrite Engine Stop Smoke 375mL - ADESS375

Penrite Engine Stop Smoke 375mL - ADESS375

$19
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Lucas Oil Engine Oil Stop Leak 946ml - 10278

Lucas Oil Engine Oil Stop Leak 946ml - 10278

$30
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Rislone One Seal Stop Leak 325ml - 44334

Rislone One Seal Stop Leak 325ml - 44334

$21
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Kelpro Oil Seal - 97902

Kelpro Oil Seal - 97902

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$164
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Kelpro Oil Seal - 97901

Kelpro Oil Seal - 97901

Confirm Vehicle
$152
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Sealwell Coolant System Conditioner 2 Pack - T51012

Sealwell Coolant System Conditioner 2 Pack - T51012

$27
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CRC Dry Glide with PTFE 150g - 3040
CRC

CRC Dry Glide with PTFE 150g - 3040

$34
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Penrite Fork Oil 5 1L - MCFO05001

Penrite Fork Oil 5 1L - MCFO05001

$38
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Rislone Radiator Stop Leak 325mL - 41196

Rislone Radiator Stop Leak 325mL - 41196

$20
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Rislone Head Gasket Fix 680g - 41111

Rislone Head Gasket Fix 680g - 41111

$101
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Rislone Aluminium Radiator Stop Leak 479g - 41186

Rislone Aluminium Radiator Stop Leak 479g - 41186

$32
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CRC Silicone Grease 75ml - 3036
CRC

CRC Silicone Grease 75ml - 3036

$30
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Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak 355mL - 10008

Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak 355mL - 10008

$44
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CRC Syntex 400ml - 3035
CRC

CRC Syntex 400ml - 3035

$28
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Rislone Transmission Fix 340ml - 44515

Rislone Transmission Fix 340ml - 44515

$55
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Selleys Instant Gasket GS75 75g - 100177/AF05

Selleys Instant Gasket GS75 75g - 100177/AF05

$27
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Showing 1 - 39 of 78 products

2007 Toyota Land Cruiser oil seals — what they do and when to replace them

Oil seals absolutely are used on the 2007 Toyota Land Cruiser. Technical sources such as the Toyota Repair Manual (Factory Service Manual) and Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue list multiple seals across the vehicle: crankshaft front and rear main oil seals, camshaft seals (engine dependent), transmission and transfer case output seals, differential pinion and side seals, and front/rear axle hub and drive shaft oil seals. These appear in the Engine Mechanical, Automatic/Manual Transmission, Transfer, Differential, and Axle sections of the FSM, and in the EPC under items like “Oil Seal, Crankshaft Front,” “Oil Seal, Type T,” and “Oil Seal, Drive Shaft.”

For a 2007 Land Cruiser—whether it’s a late 100 Series or early 200 Series—oil seals keep engine and driveline fluids where they belong, preventing leaks, maintaining proper lubrication, and protecting bearings and clutches from contamination. When seals age, they harden or groove the shaft surfaces, and the tell-tale weeps start showing up under the bellhousing, around the timing cover, or at the diff pinion and axle ends. Left alone, leaks can lower oil levels and quietly shorten the life of expensive assemblies.

As part of routine servicing, a quick look for dampness or fling marks is cheap insurance. They’ll often check:

  • Crankshaft front and rear areas for engine oil misting
  • Transfer case and gearbox output flanges for sling-off
  • Front CV/axle inner seals and rear axle ends for diff oil
  • Diff pinion nuts for wetness and dust stuck to oil

Replacement intervals aren’t mileage-based, seals are changed on condition. Common triggers are fresh leaks, a clutch job (rear main while the gearbox is out), timing belt/chain work (front crank and cam seals), or when doing wheel bearings or diff work. On these Toyotas, it pays to use genuine or high-quality OEM seals and to inspect the shaft running surfaces—if they’re grooved, consider a sleeve. Correct seal depth, orientation, and a light smear of clean oil on the lips help them bed in. For pinion and output flanges, marking the nut, counting turns, and using a torque wrench preserves preload, the FSM outlines the correct procedure.

DIY is doable with the right tools—a seal puller, driver, sockets, and a service manual—but drivetrain seals can require special handling. If there’s any doubt about pinion preload or transfer outputs, a trusted mechanic will save headaches and keep the Cruiser ready for more kays on corrugated roads.

How often should oil seals be checked on a 2007 Toyota Land Cruiser?

They’re best checked at every oil change or major service—so roughly every 10,000–15,000 km for most Aussie and Kiwi schedules. There’s no set replacement interval, seals are changed when they show signs of leakage, are disturbed during other repairs, or when running surfaces are worn.

If the vehicle tows, sees lots of off-road work, or fords water, step up the inspections. Mud and heat cycles are hard on seals, and catching a small weep early avoids bigger jobs later.

What are the most common leak points for Land Cruiser oil seals?

Typical hot spots called out in workshop references are the rear main crank seal (often tackled during a clutch or transmission-out job), front crank and cam seals around timing service, front diff pinion seal, transfer case output seals, and front axle inner oil seals where the CVs enter the diff.

Any oil on the underbody or fling marks on the tailshaft or wheels warrants a closer look to pinpoint the source before topping up and carrying on.

Can a home mechanic replace these seals, or is a workshop visit smarter?

Engine front seals and some axle seals are within reach for a careful DIYer with a seal puller, driver, and the right torque specs. Use quality parts, clean mating surfaces, and mind seal depth and orientation.

Jobs affecting pinion preload, rear main seals (gearbox out), or transfer outputs are often better in a workshop. A pro will set preloads correctly and pressure-test where needed, saving repeat work.

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