Parts for your 2006 Mitsubishi Pajero-Cluth slave cylinder

2006 Mitsubishi Pajero clutch slave cylinder (cluth-slave-cylinder): what it is and how to look after it

On a 2006 Mitsubishi Pajero with a manual gearbox, a clutch slave cylinder is fitted and absolutely relevant. The factory workshop manual for the Pajero NS generation (Group 21 – Clutch) describes the hydraulic clutch system using a clutch master cylinder on the firewall and a clutch release (slave) cylinder on the transmission bellhousing. Mitsubishi’s ASA electronic parts catalogue likewise lists a “clutch release cylinder” for 2006 Pajero manual variants. Automatic-transmission Pajeros don’t use a clutch slave cylinder, so the part isn’t applicable to auto models.

For manual 2006 Pajeros, the clutch slave cylinder does a simple but critical job: it converts pedal pressure (via fluid from the master cylinder) into movement at the clutch fork, cleanly disengaging the clutch so gears can be selected without graunching. Off-road touring, towing, and stop–start city runs put plenty of heat cycles and pedal work through the hydraulics, so keeping the slave in good nick pays off in smoother shifts and fewer headaches.

Typical signs the slave cylinder’s on the way out include a spongy or sinking pedal, difficulty getting into first or reverse, clutch drag at the lights, or wetness/paint peel around the bellhousing from leaking brake fluid. If the reservoir keeps dropping, check both the master and the slave—leaks at either end will starve the system.

• Fluid choice and intervals: Use the brake fluid grade specified in the workshop manual (typically DOT 3 or DOT 4). Fresh fluid every 24 months or 40,000 km is a safe rule for Aussie and Kiwi conditions, especially if the vehicle sees water crossings or red dust.
• Inspection: Look for perished rubber dust boots, seepage at the bleed nipple, and soft hoses. Replace any suspect components as a set if wear is advanced.
• Replacement basics: The slave bolts to the bellhousing and connects via a hard line or flex hose. Swap it out, snug the mounting bolts to spec per the workshop manual, then bleed the system (gravity, pressure, or two-person method) until the pedal’s firm and free of air.
• Pedal feel: There’s no cable to adjust, hydraulic self-take-up handles clutch wear. If the bite point is off after bleeding, recheck for trapped air or internal leaks.

Referencing: Mitsubishi Motors Pajero/Montero/Shogun Workshop Manual (NS series, Group 21 – Clutch) and Mitsubishi ASA Electronic Parts Catalogue confirm the use and placement of the clutch release (slave) cylinder on 2006 manual models, not present on automatics.

Popular questions about 2006 Mitsubishi Pajero cluth-slave-cylinder

Does a 2006 Mitsubishi Pajero automatic have a clutch slave cylinder?
Automatic Pajeros don’t have a clutch pedal or hydraulic clutch circuit, so there’s no slave cylinder fitted. Only manual-transmission models use a clutch slave cylinder on the bellhousing.

Where is the clutch slave cylinder on a 2006 Pajero, and how hard is it to replace?
It sits on the side of the transmission bellhousing, acting on the clutch fork. Access is from underneath. Replacement is straightforward for a competent home mechanic: unbolt the old unit, connect the new one, then bleed the system. Always follow the workshop manual and use axle stands for safety.

What fluid should be used and how often should it be changed?
Use the brake fluid grade specified in the factory manual (commonly DOT 3 or DOT 4). In Australian and New Zealand conditions, changing the clutch hydraulic fluid about every 2 years or 40,000 km helps prevent internal corrosion and keeps pedal feel consistent.