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Parts for your 2006 Holden Commodore-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2006 Holden Commodore engine-mount
Engine mounts are absolutely fitted to the 2006 Holden Commodore. Holden’s factory workshop manuals for late VZ and early VE models, along with GM’s Global Electronic Parts Catalogue and common Australian service guides (e.g., Gregory’s and Haynes), list left- and right-hand engine mount insulators/brackets and a rear transmission mount for all 2006 variants (V6 Alloytec and V8). These technical sources specify the mounts as serviceable items and provide procedures and torque values for removal and installation, confirming the part is relevant and used on this vehicle.
On a 2006 Commodore, the engine mount’s job is to hold the donk securely in the bay while soaking up vibration and movement. Most are hydraulic rubber mounts that isolate harshness, so the cabin stays calm and the driveline lines up sweetly under load. They also keep the exhaust, hoses, and shifter geometry happy by limiting how far the engine rocks when you take off, change gears, or hit a bump.
If the mounts get tired, the car starts to tell tales. Expect more vibration through the steering wheel or seat at idle, a thunk on take-off or when shifting, and sometimes a slightly crooked engine stance under the bonnet. On hard acceleration or overrun, the engine may feel like it’s shifting about more than it should.
- Check mounts at regular services (every 20,000–30,000 km) or if new vibration/clunks appear.
- Look for collapsed rubber, torn bonding, fluid seepage from hydraulic types, and metal-to-metal contact.
- Inspect adjacent bits: exhaust flex joints, radiator hoses, and the transmission mount.
Replacement is straightforward for a pro and very doable for a savvy DIYer with stands, a jack and block to support the sump, and the correct tools. Replace mounts in pairs if one has clearly failed to keep balance side-to-side. Pre-fit the new mount loosely, settle the engine’s weight, then tighten to the workshop manual torque specs. After fitting, recheck clearances around the exhaust and steering, and take a gentle test drive to verify vibrations are gone. Quality OEM-equivalent mounts tend to ride smoother and last longer, so they’re worth the extra spend on a daily. In Aussie and Kiwi conditions—heat, stop-start, and the odd corrugated road—expect typical service life to be 120,000–200,000 km, but tow cars and spirited drivers may see earlier wear.
How long do engine mounts last on a 2006 Holden Commodore?
Most drivers see 120,000–200,000 km from quality mounts. City heat, towing, performance use, and oil leaks onto the rubber can shorten that. If vibrations or clunks show up, don’t wait for a service interval—get them checked sooner.
What are the common symptoms of a failed engine mount?
Rough idle in the cabin, a knock on take-off or gear changes, visible sag or fluid leak from the mount, and the engine shifting more than normal under throttle. You might also notice exhaust contact or new vibrations after hitting a pothole or kerb.
Is it safe to keep driving with a bad engine mount?
Short, gentle trips may be okay, but it’s not ideal. A failed mount can stress hoses, exhausts, and the transmission mount, and the extra movement can worsen quickly. Book a repair soon to avoid knock-on damage and a bigger bill.