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Parts for your 2004 Toyota Highlander-Oil seals

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Nulon Engine Oil Stop Leak 300ml - ESL
30%OFF

Nulon Engine Oil Stop Leak 300ml - ESL

$27.30
$39
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MaxiTrac 47 Piece Tyre Repair Kit
30%OFF

MaxiTrac 47 Piece Tyre Repair Kit

$48.30
$69
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Castrol Petrol Engine Flush 300ml - 3441131
55%OFF

Castrol Petrol Engine Flush 300ml - 3441131

$12
$23
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Castrol Diesel Engine Flush 300ml - 3441133
55%OFF

Castrol Diesel Engine Flush 300ml - 3441133

$12
$23
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Explore 4WD & Adventure

Nulon Radiator Stop Leak 300mL - R50
30%OFF

Nulon Radiator Stop Leak 300mL - R50

$14.70
$21
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Big Wipes Heavy-Duty Wipes 80 Pack - 2420
20%OFF

Big Wipes Heavy-Duty Wipes 80 Pack - 2420

$32.80
$41
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LIQUI MOLY Engine Flush Plus 300ml - 2784

LIQUI MOLY Engine Flush Plus 300ml - 2784

$27
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Penrite Engine Flush 375ml - ADEF375

Penrite Engine Flush 375ml - ADEF375

$27
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Penrite Radiator Flush Additive 375mL - ADRF375

Penrite Radiator Flush Additive 375mL - ADRF375

$27
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K-SEAL Ultimate Head Gasket Repair - K3501

K-SEAL Ultimate Head Gasket Repair - K3501

$102
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Rislone Rear Main Seal Repair 500ml - 44240

Rislone Rear Main Seal Repair 500ml - 44240

$38
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LIQUI MOLY Engine Oil Resealer 300ml - 2782

LIQUI MOLY Engine Oil Resealer 300ml - 2782

$29
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Penrite Lifter and Tappet Fix 375ml - ADLTF375

Penrite Lifter and Tappet Fix 375ml - ADLTF375

$31
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Penrite Engine Oil Stop Leak 375ml - ADESL375

Penrite Engine Oil Stop Leak 375ml - ADESL375

$24
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Penrite Fork Oil 10 1L - MCFO10001

Penrite Fork Oil 10 1L - MCFO10001

$48
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Penrite Engine Stop Smoke 375mL - ADESS375

Penrite Engine Stop Smoke 375mL - ADESS375

$19
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Rislone One Seal Stop Leak 325ml - 44334

Rislone One Seal Stop Leak 325ml - 44334

$21
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Lucas Oil Engine Oil Stop Leak 946ml - 10278

Lucas Oil Engine Oil Stop Leak 946ml - 10278

$30
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Permaseal Oil Seal - NK050

Permaseal Oil Seal - NK050

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$35
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Kelpro Oil Seal - 97740

Kelpro Oil Seal - 97740

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$111
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Permaseal Oil Seal - OSS0264

Permaseal Oil Seal - OSS0264

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$99
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Sealwell Coolant System Conditioner 2 Pack - T51012

Sealwell Coolant System Conditioner 2 Pack - T51012

$27
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CRC Dry Glide with PTFE 150g - 3040
CRC

CRC Dry Glide with PTFE 150g - 3040

$34
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Penrite Fork Oil 5 1L - MCFO05001

Penrite Fork Oil 5 1L - MCFO05001

$38
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Rislone Radiator Stop Leak 325mL - 41196

Rislone Radiator Stop Leak 325mL - 41196

$20
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Rislone Head Gasket Fix 680g - 41111

Rislone Head Gasket Fix 680g - 41111

$101
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Rislone Aluminium Radiator Stop Leak 479g - 41186

Rislone Aluminium Radiator Stop Leak 479g - 41186

$32
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CRC Silicone Grease 75ml - 3036
CRC

CRC Silicone Grease 75ml - 3036

$30
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Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak 355mL - 10008

Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak 355mL - 10008

$44
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Showing 1 - 39 of 81 products

2004 Toyota Highlander oil seals — what they do and when to replace

Oil seals are absolutely relevant to the 2004 Toyota Highlander (known as Kluger in Australia and New Zealand). Technical references such as the Toyota Highlander 2001–2007 Repair Manual (Toyota RM for A/CU2# series), the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC), and Aisin U150F/U151E transaxle service literature all specify multiple engine, transaxle, and driveline oil seals fitted to this model. These seals are standard components designed to keep lubricants in and contaminants out across rotating shafts and housings.

On this Highlander, oil seals protect critical assemblies by preventing engine oil, transmission fluid, transfer case oil (AWD), and differential oil from escaping. They also stop dust, water, and grit from getting in and chewing out bearings and gears. When they’re healthy, seals help maintain correct fluid levels and pressure, which supports smooth shifting, quiet running, and long component life.

  • Engine: crankshaft front and rear main seals, and camshaft seals (1MZ-FE/3MZ-FE V6).
  • Transaxle: left/right drive shaft (axle) oil seals and input/output shaft seals (Aisin U150F/U151E).
  • AWD/4WD models: transfer case input/output seals and rear differential pinion/axle seals.
  • Steering and ancillary systems may also use dedicated oil seals.

As part of routine servicing, it’s smart to have a quick look under the vehicle and around the timing cover, bell housing, and drive shaft outlets for dampness or oil mist. A tell-tale weep, burnt-oil smell, or drips on the driveway usually points to a hard or worn seal. Left alone, even a small leak can lower fluid levels and accelerate wear.

When replacement is needed, use quality OEM-equivalent seals (nitrile or Viton, as specified), clean the bore and shaft, lightly oil the lip, and drive the new seal square with the correct installer. If the shaft has a groove, a wear sleeve may be required. On V6 engines, also check the PCV system—excess crankcase pressure can push past new seals. For axle seals, inspect the CV joint journal for scoring and confirm the venting on diffs/transfer case is clear.

There’s no fixed kilometre interval for seals, but a quick inspection every 10,000–15,000 km during regular servicing is easy insurance. Address small leaks early, top up the affected fluid to spec, and torque related fasteners correctly. With the right parts and method, seal jobs are straightforward and keep a 2004 Highlander tidy, reliable, and leak-free.

How can someone spot a failing oil seal on a 2004 Toyota Highlander?

Look for fresh oil dampness around the timing cover, crank pulley, bell housing, and where the front drive shafts enter the transaxle. A light mist on the underbody, oil collecting at the lowest point of a housing, or a burnt oil smell after a drive are common signs. For AWD, also check the transfer case and rear diff pinion areas.

Which oil seals most commonly leak on these vehicles?

Typically the front crankshaft seal, camshaft seals (on higher‑kilometre V6s), and front transaxle drive shaft (axle) seals show up first. AWD models may also see weeps at the transfer case output or rear differential pinion seal, especially if breathers are blocked or the vehicle tows regularly.

Is replacing an axle oil seal a DIY job or best left to a workshop?

Skilled DIYers with a proper jack, stands, seal drivers, and a torque wrench can manage axle seals, but it involves removing the CV shaft and setting the new seal square without damaging the lip. Many owners prefer a workshop to avoid comebacks and to have fluids refilled to the exact spec with the right scan-tool checks where needed.

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