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Parts for your 2004 Toyota Crown-Oil seals

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Nulon Engine Oil Stop Leak 300ml - ESL
30%OFF

Nulon Engine Oil Stop Leak 300ml - ESL

$27.30
$39
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MaxiTrac 47 Piece Tyre Repair Kit
30%OFF

MaxiTrac 47 Piece Tyre Repair Kit

$48.30
$69
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Castrol Petrol Engine Flush 300ml - 3441131
55%OFF

Castrol Petrol Engine Flush 300ml - 3441131

$12
$23
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Castrol Diesel Engine Flush 300ml - 3441133
55%OFF

Castrol Diesel Engine Flush 300ml - 3441133

$12
$23
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Nulon Radiator Stop Leak 300mL - R50
30%OFF

Nulon Radiator Stop Leak 300mL - R50

$14.70
$21
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Big Wipes Heavy-Duty Wipes 80 Pack - 2420
20%OFF

Big Wipes Heavy-Duty Wipes 80 Pack - 2420

$32.80
$41
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LIQUI MOLY Engine Flush Plus 300ml - 2784

LIQUI MOLY Engine Flush Plus 300ml - 2784

$27
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Penrite Engine Flush 375ml - ADEF375

Penrite Engine Flush 375ml - ADEF375

$27
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K&N Oil Filter - HP-1008

K&N Oil Filter - HP-1008

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$35
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Penrite Radiator Flush Additive 375mL - ADRF375

Penrite Radiator Flush Additive 375mL - ADRF375

$27
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K-SEAL Ultimate Head Gasket Repair - K3501

K-SEAL Ultimate Head Gasket Repair - K3501

$102
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K&N Performance Intake Kit - HP-1003

K&N Performance Intake Kit - HP-1003

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$36
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Kelpro Oil Seal - 98663

Kelpro Oil Seal - 98663

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$45
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Rislone Rear Main Seal Repair 500ml - 44240

Rislone Rear Main Seal Repair 500ml - 44240

$38
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LIQUI MOLY Engine Oil Resealer 300ml - 2782

LIQUI MOLY Engine Oil Resealer 300ml - 2782

$29
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Showing 1 - 39 of 2223 products

2004 Toyota Crown oilseals – what they do and when to sort them

Per Toyota’s Electronic Parts Catalogue for the S180-series Crown (2004) and the Toyota Repair Manual coverage for the 4GR‑FSE/3GR‑FSE engines and Aisin automatic transmissions of the era, this model absolutely uses multiple oilseals. You’ll find crankshaft front and rear main seals, camshaft seals, transmission input/output and selector shaft seals, differential pinion and axle shaft seals, and hub-related seals where applicable. Aisin transmission service data also lists corresponding lip seals and O‑rings. So yes, oilseals are relevant on a 2004 Toyota Crown.

These oilseals keep engine oil, ATF and diff oil where they belong, stop dust and water getting in, and help maintain correct pressures. When an oilseal hardens or grooves the shaft, the tell-tales are damp, grimy areas around the crank pulley, the bellhousing, driveshaft flanges, or the diff nose, sometimes with a hot oil whiff under the bonnet or oil mist down the underbody.

There’s no fixed replacement interval, they’re typically replaced on condition. Smart owners use major jobs as chances to refresh them: front crank/cam seals during front cover or timing work, the rear main when the gearbox is out, axle and pinion seals during CV, bearing or diff service. For longevity, keep crankcase ventilation healthy (PCV valve and breathers), avoid overfilling oils, stick to the correct viscosity, and address any cooling issues that can cook seals.

  • Go genuine or quality OEM (Toyota/NOK/Corteco) for the right lip profile and material.
  • Clean the bore, check the shaft for grooves, if worn, consider a sleeve or the proper repair.
  • Lightly oil the seal lip, drive it square with a proper installer, and mind orientation.
  • Use sealant only where the manual specifies (e.g., certain case joints), and torque fasteners correctly.
  • After refit, top up fluids, run, and recheck for weeps. In NZ, persistent leaks can risk a WOF fail.

A tidy 2004 Toyota Crown shouldn’t mark the driveway. If there’s a drip, it’s usually cheaper to sort early than to let oil contaminate the timing area, clutch surfaces (on manuals), rubber mounts, or the transmission. A reputable mechanic familiar with Toyota/Aisin gear will have the right drivers and specs to make it a once-only job.

Popular questions about 2004 Toyota Crown oilseals

Where are the most common oilseals that leak on a 2004 Toyota Crown?

Typical culprits are the front crank seal (behind the crank pulley), the rear main seal (between engine and transmission), transmission output shaft seals at the driveshaft, and the differential pinion seal. Camshaft seals can weep on higher‑km engines. You’ll usually see wetness and road grime build-up at those points, sometimes with a faint burning‑oil smell after a drive.

Can oilseal leaks be prevented, or is replacement the only fix?

You can slow the march of time by keeping service fluids fresh, using the specified oil, maintaining the PCV/breather system to avoid pressure build-up, and not overfilling. Warm the car gently so seals aren’t shocked. Once a seal lip has hardened or the shaft is grooved, though, the proper fix is replacement and, if needed, a shaft repair sleeve.

Is it safe to keep driving with a small oilseal leak?

Short hops to a workshop are usually fine if fluids are topped up and the leak isn’t dripping onto hot exhaust parts. Ongoing driving risks low oil/ATF levels, clutch or belt contamination, and in NZ can affect a WOF. Keep an eye on levels and book it in promptly to avoid a bigger bill.

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