Your Selected Vehicle
Parts for your 1999 Mitsubishi Lancer-Oil seals
Penrite ATF FS Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid 4L - ATFFS004
Explore 4WD & Adventure
1999 Mitsubishi Lancer oil-seals: what they do and when to replace them
Oil seals are absolutely used on the 1999 Mitsubishi Lancer. Technical references including the Mitsubishi Lancer CE/CK Workshop Manual (1995–2002), the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue, and the Haynes Mitsubishi Lancer & Mirage Repair Manual (1997–2007) document multiple engine and driveline oil seals on this model—front and rear crankshaft seals, camshaft seals, valve stem seals, and transaxle/drive shaft output seals. These sources cover identification, inspection and replacement procedures for the seals fitted to both manual and automatic variants.
On a ’99 Lancer, oil seals do the unglamorous but vital job of keeping engine oil and transmission fluid where they belong while keeping dust and water out. They sit around spinning shafts—crankshaft, camshaft and gearbox output shafts—so the bearings stay lubricated, timing components stay clean, and the clutch or timing belt isn’t fouled by oil mist.
The car typically runs nitrile or FKM (Viton) lip seals with a spring-loaded garter to maintain contact pressure. You’ll find them at the front of the engine behind the crank pulley, at the back of the engine around the flywheel (rear main), behind the timing cover on the cams, and at the gearbox where the driveshafts slide in. If equipped, balance shaft seals are also present.
- Signs they’re tired: oil dampness behind the crank pulley or timing cover, oil on the timing belt, clutch slip from a weeping rear main, gear oil/ATF around inner CV joints, burnt-oil smells, or a steady drip after parking.
- When to sort them: they’re not a routine “every service” item, but smart to replace proactively during related jobs—timing belt/water pump (about every 100,000 km or as specified), or when the gearbox is out for a clutch.
For timing-side work, most owners choose to do the front crank and cam seals while the belt is off. It’s low extra labour and saves coming back later. Use OEM-quality or reputable-brand seals, lightly oil the lips on install, and drive them square with the correct tool. If the crank pulley has a wear groove, consider a sleeve or replacement. A healthy PCV system helps keep crankcase pressure in check, reducing future seepage.
On manual and auto gearboxes, replace axle/output seals whenever the shafts are removed, and keep an eye on fluid levels—low gear oil or ATF can cost a gearbox long before a seal is fully kaput.
Does a 1999 Mitsubishi Lancer have a rear main seal, and when should it be replaced?
Yes, it has a rear crankshaft (rear main) seal between engine and gearbox. Replace if there’s clutch contamination, persistent drips from the bellhousing, or any time the gearbox is out for a clutch—doing it then saves a heap of labour later.
Should the front crank and cam seals be done with the timing belt?
It’s good practice. While not mandatory if bone-dry, swapping them during a timing belt service (typically around 100,000 km, or as per the handbook) is inexpensive insurance against oil on a fresh belt.
Which seal material is best for replacements?
Quality nitrile works fine for most daily use, but FKM/Viton seals handle heat and modern oils better and usually last longer—handy in Aussie and Kiwi summers or on higher‑km cars.