Parts for your 1998 Mitsubishi Pajero-Wheel studs nuts

1998 Mitsubishi Pajero wheel studs and nuts

Technical sources including the Mitsubishi Pajero Factory Service Manual (Wheels and Tyres section), the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue for 1997–1999 Pajero (V2/V4/V6 series), and aftermarket workshop guides such as Haynes confirm that the 1998 Mitsubishi Pajero uses wheel studs with wheel nuts (not wheel bolts). It’s a six-stud 4x4 arrangement typical of Japanese SUVs of the era.

On a 1998 Pajero, the wheel studs and nuts do the heavy lifting of clamping the wheel to the hub, coping with towing, corrugations, off-road flex and daily commuting. The studs are pressed into the hub flange, and the nuts draw the wheel up tight against the hub face. Most OE Pajero wheels of this vintage use a tapered-seat nut, though some factory alloys may use a mag/shank style nut with a washer—so matching the seat style to the wheel is critical. Mixing seat types or reusing chewed-out nuts is a fast track to vibration, loose wheels and damaged studs.

As part of routine servicing or any wheel-off work, it’s smart to:

• Inspect studs for stretched threads, rust pitting, cracks at the base of the knurl, or any signs of spinning in the hub.
• Check nuts for rounded hexes, cracked washers (if mag-seat type), or galling on the seat.
• Clean the hub face and wheel mating surface so clamping force is even.
• Install nuts dry (no oil or anti-seize unless the service data explicitly allows) and torque with a calibrated wrench in a star pattern to the factory spec.
• Re-torque after 50–100 km of driving, especially after tyre rotation, new tyres, or off-road work.

If a stud is damaged, it’s a press-fit replacement from the rear of the hub. On the Pajero, that usually means removing the brake rotor/drum and sometimes the hub to give proper clearance. Draw new studs in square using washers and a sacrificial nut or a proper stud installer, avoid hammering them in with the wheel nut, which can score threads or seat the stud crooked. Replace any suspect nuts at the same time, and always match thread pitch and seat style to the wheel. For vehicles that have lived near the coast or done beach work, plan periodic replacement of rusty hardware—cheap insurance on a heavy 4x4 that sees real-world loads.

This approach keeps clamp force consistent, prevents wheel wobble, and helps protect wheel bearings and brake components on the 1998 Pajero.

Popular questions

What thread and nut style does a 1998 Pajero use?
Most 1998 Pajeros run M12 x 1.5 studs and tapered-seat wheel nuts on OE steel or alloy wheels. Some factory alloys may use mag/shank-seat nuts with washers. Always match the nut seat to the wheel design and confirm thread pitch before ordering.

What torque should the wheel nuts be tightened to?
Follow the owner’s manual or workshop data for the exact figure and tighten with a torque wrench in a star pattern on a clean, dry thread and seat. Re-check torque after 50–100 km. Avoid rattle-gun over-tightening, which can stretch studs.

Can Pajero wheel studs be replaced without pulling the hub?
They’re press-in studs, so the brake rotor/drum generally needs to come off to provide clearance. On some corners there’s just enough room to snake a stud in, but removing the hub or rotor makes for a cleaner, square install and reduces the risk of damage.