Parts for your 1987 Mitsubishi Pajero-Driveshafts

1987 Mitsubishi Pajero Driveshafts

Yes, driveshafts are absolutely used on the 1987 Mitsubishi Pajero. Technical documentation including the Mitsubishi Pajero 1983–1991 Factory Service Manual (Chassis: Propeller Shaft & Differential), Gregory’s 508 Service & Repair Manual, and the Haynes Pajero/Montero manual all detail front and rear propeller shafts on the L040/L044 series with a part-time 4WD transfer case. Rear drive is permanent via the rear prop shaft, with selectable 4H/4L engaging the front prop shaft to the front differential. The front independent suspension models use CV half-shafts from the front diff to the hubs, and many long-wheelbase (LWB) versions run a two-piece rear shaft with a centre support bearing.

The driveshafts’ job is to send torque from the gearbox and transfer case to the diffs smoothly and quietly, even as the suspension moves. Universal joints (U-joints) handle the angle changes, while correct phasing and balance stop vibrations. On LWB models the centre bearing supports the longer rear shaft. Keeping everything tight, well-greased, and in balance is key to a comfy, rattle-free drive—on-road or out in the bush.

As part of routine servicing, owners should grease the prop shaft slip yokes and U-joints at regular intervals (typically every 10,000–15,000 km, or after water crossings and heavy off-road work), inspect for play, and check fasteners at the flanges. Front CV boots should be clean, intact, and not slinging grease. If removing a shaft, mark the flanges so it goes back in the same orientation, use fresh medium-strength threadlocker on clean threads, and torque to the factory spec from the FSM. After any U-joint or centre bearing work, have the shaft balanced if there’s even a hint of vibration.

• Clues it’s time for attention: a clunk on take-off, vibration under load or at certain speeds, chirping or squeaking at parking speeds, visible play at a U-joint, torn CV boots, grease fling around joints, or a weep at the transfer case rear seal.
• For lifted Pajeros, watch driveline angles, incorrect phasing or steep pinion angles will chew through U-joints and cause shudders.
• Choose quality greasable U-joints and, on LWB models, inspect the centre bearing rubber for cracking and the bearing for roughness.

Look after the Pajero’s driveshafts, and they’ll happily handle the corrugations and keep the kilometres rolling without drama.

FAQs

What are the common symptoms of a worn driveshaft or U-joint on a 1987 Mitsubishi Pajero?
Owners usually notice a dull clunk when shifting from reverse to drive or taking off, a vibration that gets worse with speed or throttle, or a rhythmic chirp at low speed. Any noticeable free play at a U-joint, grease slung around a joint, or a torn front CV boot also points to attention needed.

Left too long, a failing U-joint can damage the yokes and lead to loss of drive, so it’s worth sorting at the first sign of trouble.

How often should the driveshafts be serviced or greased?
For mixed on-road use, a 10,000–15,000 km interval is a good rule of thumb, lining up with regular services. After deep water crossings, beach work, or dusty trips, grease and inspect sooner. Always use a quality NLGI 2 grease, wipe off old grit before pumping fresh grease, and recheck flange bolt torque.

Are SWB and LWB 1987 Pajero driveshafts interchangeable?
Generally, no. The long-wheelbase models often run a two-piece rear shaft with a centre support bearing, while short-wheelbase models use a different length and layout. Part numbers and lengths vary with engine, transmission, and differential ratios too. Match by VIN and drivetrain, or measure flange-to-flange and spline specs before ordering.