Parts for your 2020 Suzuki Splash-Wheel studs nuts

2020 Suzuki Splash wheel studs and nuts

Based on Suzuki technical references, wheel studs and nuts are fitted to the Suzuki Splash. The Suzuki Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) for the Splash/Ritz platform shows pressed‑in wheel studs on the front and rear hubs with separate wheel nuts, and the Suzuki Workshop Manual for Splash/Ritz discusses inspection/replacement of wheel studs and torqueing of wheel nuts. Independent wheel fitment data for Suzuki passenger models also lists the Splash as using nuts (commonly M12×1.25) rather than European‑style wheel bolts. So for a 2020 Suzuki Splash, wheel studs and nuts are absolutely relevant.

On this Splash, the job of the wheel studs and nuts is straightforward: the studs are fixed into the hub and act as guide pins, the nuts clamp the wheel firmly to the hub face so the braking and cornering loads are transferred safely. It’s a simple, reliable setup that makes wheel changes quick and tidy—just lift the wheel over the studs, run the nuts on by hand, and torque them up.

As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to give the studs and nuts a once‑over whenever tyres are rotated, brakes are inspected, or a puncture’s been repaired. Look for rusty threads, damaged nut seats, or any sign of cross‑threading. If a stud is bent, stripped, or stretched, replace it—don’t try to “chase” damaged threads back into shape. Wheel nuts with chewed hexes or distorted tapers should go in the bin and be replaced in a matched set.

For tightening, follow the spec in the owner’s or workshop manual and always use a torque wrench—shops typically set Splash wheel nuts in the 85–100 N·m range. Do the final tighten in a star pattern so the wheel seats evenly, and re‑check torque after 50–100 km, especially after fitting new wheels or having tyres done. Avoid lubricating the threads or cone seats unless Suzuki explicitly specifies a product, clean and dry is the go for consistent clamping force.

If a stud snaps, the car shouldn’t be driven hard until it’s fixed. Press‑in studs can usually be knocked out and replaced with the hub on the car, but sometimes the hub needs to come off for proper access. Use quality studs and the correct 60° taper nuts for factory wheels, if running aftermarket rims, match the seat type (taper, mag, or ball) and shank length to avoid fretting and looseness over time.

• Inspect threads and nut seats at each tyre rotation.
• Hand‑start every nut, never force a cross‑thread.
• Torque with a calibrated wrench, avoid relying on rattle guns.
• Clean the hub face so the wheel sits flush.
• Replace damaged studs/nuts immediately to keep it roadworthy.

Popular questions

What is the correct torque for the wheel nuts on a 2020 Suzuki Splash?
Always follow the figure in the owner’s or workshop manual. For most Splash variants, workshops set wheel‑nut torque in the 85–100 N·m range. Use a torque wrench and re‑check after 50–100 km following wheel removal or rotation.

Are the Splash’s wheel nuts tapered or mag‑seat?
Factory Splash wheels use 60° tapered (conical) nuts to match the rim seat. If using aftermarket wheels, confirm the seat type (taper, mag/flat, or ball) and thread spec (commonly M12×1.25) so the clamping is correct and the nuts don’t loosen.

Can a single broken wheel stud be replaced, or do they all need doing?
A single damaged stud can be replaced on its own. That said, if threads are corroded or multiple studs look tired, it’s wise to replace the affected side in one go. Always fit quality parts and torque the nuts correctly to prevent repeat issues.