Parts for your 2017 Mitsubishi Asx-Wheel studs nuts

2017 Mitsubishi ASX wheel studs and nuts

Technical sources confirm the 2017 Mitsubishi ASX uses pressed-in wheel studs with separate wheel nuts (five per wheel, 5x114.3 PCD). The Mitsubishi service manual for the GA-series ASX/Outlander Sport specifies wheel nut tightening to around 98 N·m and illustrates conical-seat nuts on fixed studs. The Mitsubishi ASA parts catalogue for GA1W/GA2W lists individual wheel studs and nuts, and major aftermarket catalogues in Australia and New Zealand (common listings from Repco/Burson and global component suppliers) carry replacement ASX wheel studs and nuts for 2011–2019 models. That makes wheel studs and nuts entirely relevant to the 2017 ASX.

On the 2017 ASX, the wheel studs and nuts do the crucial job of clamping the wheel evenly to the hub so the brake rotor and wheel stay perfectly aligned. Each stud is a high-strength fastener pressed into the hub flange, the conical-seat nuts centre the wheel and provide the clamping force. Looked after properly, they’ll handle daily driving, corrugations, and open-road kilometres without fuss.

As part of routine servicing or any tyre rotation, it’s smart to give the studs and nuts a once-over. A technician will check for damaged or stretched threads, rust pitting, and any signs of a previously over-tightened or cross-threaded nut. Nuts should spin on by hand for several turns, any binding usually means thread damage. Wheel nuts on this model are typically torqued to about 98 N·m on clean, dry threads—no oil or anti-seize on the threads or the nut seat, because lubricants can lead to over-clamping. A light smear of anti-seize can go on the wheel-to-hub face to prevent the wheel sticking, but not on the studs themselves. After wheel service, it’s good practice to recheck torque after 50–100 km.

If a stud is bent or stripped, replacement is straightforward but methodical: wheel off, caliper and rotor off, then press or drive the old stud out of the hub and pull the new stud in square using a spacer and a sacrificial nut, finishing with a torque check using the correct nuts. If one stud has failed due to over-torque, replacing the affected nut and inspecting neighbouring studs is wise. Always match the nut type (60° taper) to the wheel seat, and if the ASX runs locking nuts, ensure the key fits cleanly and the lock nut isn’t cracking at the collar.

Quick care tips for the ASX’s studs and nuts:

• Use a torque wrench for final tightening, don’t rely on a rattle gun to finish.
• Tighten in a star pattern to seat the wheel evenly.
• Replace any nut with deformed flats, swollen caps, or damaged threads.
• Aftermarket wheels must use the correct conical-seat nuts and hub-centric fit.

Popular questions

What’s the correct wheel nut torque on a 2017 Mitsubishi ASX?
The Mitsubishi workshop guidance for the GA-series ASX specifies around 98 N·m on clean, dry threads. After any wheel or tyre work, it’s sensible to recheck the torque after 50–100 km to confirm the clamp load has settled evenly.

Should anti-seize be used on ASX wheel studs?
No. Threads and the conical seats should be clean and dry so the torque reading matches the actual clamping force. A tiny dab of anti-seize can be used on the wheel-to-hub face to prevent sticking, but never on the studs or nut seats.

How can someone tell if a wheel stud or nut needs replacing?
Look for cross-threading, flattened or burred threads, rust pitting, or a nut that won’t start by hand. A bent stud, a nut that continues to turn without tightening, or any stud that has been over-stretched from excessive rattle-gun torque should be replaced.