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Parts for your 2016 Toyota Vitz|yaris-Crank angle sensor
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2016 Toyota Vitz/Yaris crank-angle sensor (crankshaft position sensor)
Yes — the 2016 Toyota Vitz/Yaris is fitted with a crank‑angle sensor (commonly called the crankshaft position sensor or CKP). This is documented in Toyota’s service information for the 2016 Yaris/Vitz (KSP130/NSP130/NCP131) SFI system wiring and diagnostics, the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue which lists “Sensor, Crank Position” for the relevant engine codes (1KR‑FE, 1NR‑FE, 1NZ‑FE), and independent workshop manuals for 2007–2017 Yaris models that include testing and replacement procedures for the CKP.
On the 2016 Vitz/Yaris, the crank‑angle sensor is the unsung hero that lets the engine computer know exactly where the crankshaft is and how fast it’s spinning. With that timing and speed info, the ECU can fire the spark and inject fuel at just the right moment. Lose that signal and the car will usually crank but not start, or it may stall once warm. It’s a small magnetic/ Hall‑effect sensor aimed at a toothed wheel on the crank — clever, simple, and critical.
It isn’t a scheduled service item, so there’s no set replacement interval. During regular servicing, a smart move is to give the sensor area a quick check: look for oil leaks wicking onto the connector, damaged wiring looms near the crank pulley or timing cover, and any signs of impact or corrosion. Keeping the connector clean and the harness clipped correctly helps prevent intermittent cut‑outs that can be maddening to trace.
If replacement is needed, it’s usually a straightforward job for a competent DIYer or workshop. Disconnect the battery, unplug the connector, remove the retaining bolt, and ease the sensor out — there’s typically an O‑ring that should be replaced. Lightly oil the new O‑ring, seat the new sensor squarely, and torque the bolt to spec. The air gap is factory‑set on most Toyota sensors, so there’s no shim or manual adjustment. After fitting, clear any fault codes and check that the scan tool shows a clean engine RPM signal on crank and idle. Toyota ECUs on these engines don’t normally require a special relearn, they’ll pick up the signal straight away.
Before throwing parts at it, good diagnosis pays: if it cranks but won’t fire, check for RPM on a scan tool, look for DTCs like P0335–P0339, and inspect the wiring at the front/side of the engine. On higher‑kilometre cars, heat‑soak faults can show up as stalling when hot, then restarting once cooled — another classic CKP symptom.
- Common signs of trouble: long crank/no start, random stall, misfire at low rpm, check engine light with P0335–P0339.
- Best practice: use quality OEM‑equivalent sensors, keep the area clean, and protect the harness from rubbing.
Technical sources referenced: Toyota Service Information (TIS) for 2016 Yaris/Vitz SFI system (KSP130/NSP130/NCP131), Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue listing “Sensor, Crank Position” for 1KR‑FE/1NR‑FE/1NZ‑FE, and independent workshop manuals covering 2007–2017 Yaris models that include CKP diagnostics and P0335 procedures.
Where is the crank‑angle sensor on a 2016 Vitz/Yaris?
It’s mounted low on the engine, reading a toothed wheel on the crank. On the 1NZ‑FE and 1NR‑FE it’s typically at the front of the block near the timing cover and crank pulley. On the 1KR‑FE it’s low on the block, often accessed best from underneath. Exact position can vary slightly by engine code, but it’ll be close to the crank centreline with a short two‑ or three‑pin connector.
What symptoms point to a failing crank‑angle sensor?
Classic signs include a long crank or no‑start, sudden stalling when hot, dropouts in the tach signal, and a check engine light with codes like P0335. If a scan tool shows no RPM while cranking, the CKP circuit is a prime suspect. Wiring damage near the crank pulley area is also common and can mimic a failed sensor.
Does the crank‑angle sensor need regular servicing or calibration?
No scheduled servicing or calibration is required. The ECU handles signal processing automatically. As part of routine maintenance, just keep an eye on the connector and harness routing, and address any oil leaks that could contaminate the plug. After replacement, clear codes and confirm a stable RPM signal, no special relearn is normally needed.