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Parts for your 2015 Toyota Vitz|yaris-Struts

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Repco 56in Workstation Hutch - RWSH-56IN-GY

Repco 56in Workstation Hutch - RWSH-56IN-GY

$989
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Repco 50in Workstation Top Locker - RWSL-50IN-GY

Repco 50in Workstation Top Locker - RWSL-50IN-GY

$572
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Repco Strut - Gas Spring Support

Repco Strut - Gas Spring Support

Confirm Vehicle
$68
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Explore 4WD & Adventure

SAS Strut Mount - MT961

SAS Strut Mount - MT961

$383
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SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

$308
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SAS Strut Mount - MT236

SAS Strut Mount - MT236

$97
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SAS Strut Mount - MT248
Clearance

SAS Strut Mount - MT248

$88
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Monroe Strut Mate Bump Stop Kit - PK304

Monroe Strut Mate Bump Stop Kit - PK304

$136
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Toledo Gas Strut Support Tool - 301276

Toledo Gas Strut Support Tool - 301276

$59
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Repco 41in 6 Drawer Tool Chest - RTC-41IN-GY

Repco 41in 6 Drawer Tool Chest - RTC-41IN-GY

$833
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Repco 27in 5 Drawer Tool Chest - RTC-27IN-GY

Repco 27in 5 Drawer Tool Chest - RTC-27IN-GY

$572
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Repco Steering Wheel Puller Set 13 Piece - RST155

Repco Steering Wheel Puller Set 13 Piece - RST155

$54
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Showing 1 - 19 of 19 products

2015 Toyota Vitz/Yaris struts — what they do and when to replace

Technical sources — including Toyota’s New Car Features for the NCP13#/NSP13# series, the Toyota service manual and EPC (parts catalogue), plus major suspension catalogues from KYB and Monroe — confirm that the 2015 Toyota Vitz/Yaris (XP130) uses a MacPherson strut front suspension and a torsion-beam rear axle with separate shock absorbers. That means struts are definitely fitted at the front of this model, while the rear runs conventional shocks rather than struts.

Up front, the strut is the key structural damper that supports the hub, controls wheel motion, and keeps the tyre planted through bumps, braking, and cornering. It combines a shock absorber with a spring and mount/bearing to locate the wheel accurately while soaking up rough Aussie and Kiwi roads, from city potholes to corrugations.

For servicing, regular inspections are the go. There’s no strict replacement interval, but checking the front struts every 10,000–20,000 km or at each service is smart. Many owners see noticeable wear between 80,000 and 150,000 km depending on conditions and load. Worn struts affect braking distances, steering feel, and tyre life, and can get flagged at a WOF or roadworthy if they’re leaking or loose.

  • Signs the front struts need attention:
    • Oil seepage on the strut body or dust boot
    • Clunks/knocks over bumps or when turning
    • Excessive bounce, nose-dive, or floaty feel
    • Cupped or uneven tyre wear and steering wander
    • ABS/ESC stepping in more often on rough stops
  • Good practice when replacing:
    • Always replace struts in pairs (left and right)
    • Book a wheel alignment straight after
    • Renew strut mounts/bearings, bump stops, and dust boots
    • Torque fasteners at ride height to avoid bush bind
    • Use quality spring compressors or consider complete “loaded” strut assemblies
    • Verify spring orientation and top-mount arrows before refit

Quality OE-equivalent struts restore the Yaris/Vitz’s tidy, predictable handling and help tyres wear evenly. In NZ or Australia, where roads can be tough on dampers, looking after the front struts keeps the little Toyota feeling safe, sharp, and comfortable for the long run. Remember, the rear of this model uses shocks, not struts, so diagnosis and parts differ front to rear.

Popular questions about 2015 Toyota Vitz/Yaris struts

Do the rear suspension units on a 2015 Yaris use struts?

No — the rear runs a torsion-beam axle with separate shock absorbers and springs. Only the front of the 2015 Vitz/Yaris uses MacPherson struts. That’s why front and rear parts, tools, and labour times differ.

When the rear shocks wear, symptoms are more bounce and rear-end hop, but they won’t affect steering feel like tired front struts do.

How often should front struts be replaced on a 2015 Vitz/Yaris?

There’s no fixed schedule. Inspect every 10,000–20,000 km, many cars need fronts somewhere between 80,000 and 150,000 km depending on road quality, loads, and driving style. Replace if leaking, knocking, or failing bounce/road tests.

Whenever fronts are replaced, include mounts/bearings and get a wheel alignment to protect tyres and restore steering feel.

Is it better to fit complete loaded struts or rebuild the originals?

Both approaches work. Complete assemblies save time and avoid spring-compression risks, they’re great when mounts and boots are tired. Rebuilding with new inserts, mounts, and hardware can be cost-effective if quality parts are used and the springs are healthy.

Either way, replacing in pairs and aligning the front end is the best practice.