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Parts for your 2015 Toyota Hiace-Strut mounts

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SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

$308
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SAS Strut Mount - MT961

SAS Strut Mount - MT961

$383
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2015 Toyota HiAce strut mounts — are they actually a thing?

Short answer: no, a 2015 Toyota HiAce doesn’t use strut mounts. According to Toyota service literature for the H200-series HiAce (2004–2019) and the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue for KDH/TRH variants, the front end runs a double-wishbone suspension with a separate shock absorber and coil spring, plus an anti-roll bar. There’s no MacPherson strut assembly, so there’s no strut top bearing or “strut mount” to replace. You’ll also notice reputable parts catalogues (e.g., KYB/Monroe) list front shocks and bushes for this model, but not strut mounts for 2015 HiAce. That’s the giveaway.

Why no strut mounts? In a MacPherson setup, the strut is a structural member and the top mount/bearing handles body load and steering rotation. The HiAce’s double-wishbone design carries vehicle loads through the upper and lower control arms and ball joints instead. The shock absorber simply damps spring movement, it’s not a load-bearing strut, so it uses rubber bushes and washers at the top rather than a strut top bearing.

What should be serviced instead on a 2015 HiAce? Focus on the actual wear points that cause the knocks and creaks people often (incorrectly) blame on “strut tops”.

  • Front shock absorbers: check for leaks, dented bodies, weak rebound, and perished upper/lower bushes.
  • Coil spring seats/insulators and bump stops: look for cracking or collapse.
  • Upper and lower control arm bushes and ball joints: play or split bushes often cause clunks and feathered tyre wear.
  • Stabiliser (sway) bar bushes and links: a common source of front-end rattles over small bumps.
  • Steering tie-rod ends and rack ends: check for play and noise on lock.
  • Wheel alignment: set camber/caster/toe after any suspension work.

Practical tips for Aussie and Kiwi owners: have the front end inspected every 20,000 km or at each service if you’re doing heavy loads or rough roads. Many HiAce shocks are tired by 80,000–150,000 km depending on use. When replacing shocks, fit new upper/lower bushes, torque everything at ride height, and finish with a proper alignment. If you’re hearing a “strut top” knock, it’s usually the upper arm bushes, sway bar links, or the shock’s top bush—not a strut mount, because there isn’t one.

FAQs

Does a 2015 Toyota HiAce have strut mounts?

No. The 2015 HiAce (H200) uses a double-wishbone front suspension with a separate shock absorber and coil spring, so there’s no MacPherson strut and no strut top/bearing to service. If someone’s trying to sell you “strut mounts” for this van, they’re mixing it up with a different model.

What should be checked if there’s a knocking noise from the top of the front suspension?

On a HiAce, start with the shock absorber top bush and washers, then look at upper control arm bushes, sway bar links/bushes, and ball joints. Any play or perished rubber there will sound like a classic strut-top clunk, but it’s coming from those wear points.

Can coilover struts or strut mounts be fitted as an upgrade?

Not as a straightforward bolt-on. Converting a double-wishbone HiAce to a strut-type front end would require custom engineering and certification, and it’s rarely road-legal. For a firmer, safer setup, stick with quality shocks, fresh bushes, and a proper alignment suited to your load and driving conditions.