Parts for your 2015 Mitsubishi Outlander-Knock sensor

2015 Mitsubishi Outlander knock sensor — what it does and how to look after it

Yes, the 2015 Mitsubishi Outlander uses a knock sensor. Factory technical materials list a KS (knock sensor) input to the engine ECU across the 2.0L and 2.4L 4-cylinder petrol engines, the 3.0L V6, and the PHEV variant. This is detailed in the Mitsubishi Outlander (GF/GG/GP series) 2014–2016 Factory Service Manual under Engine Electrical (Knock Sensor), the wiring diagrams, and the DTC chart showing P0325/P0330 knock sensor circuit faults. The Mitsubishi ASA/CAPS parts catalogue also lists a knock sensor for these engines, with the V6 using two (one per bank).

On this model, the knock sensor’s job is to listen for detonation (pinging) through a piezo element mounted to the block. If combustion gets noisy, the ECU trims ignition timing to protect pistons, rings and head gaskets, keeping the Outlander running sweet on Aussie and Kiwi petrol—whether it’s the school run or a long-haul down the motorway.

• Typical signs it needs attention: check engine light with P0325/P0330, rattly “ping” under load, lazy performance, rough running and higher fuel use.
• When it’s checked: not a routine replacement item, but it should be assessed whenever there’s a drivability complaint, detonation, or a related fault code.

For servicing, a technician will scan for codes and live data, inspect the harness and connector for heat or oil damage, and verify the sensor is tight and correctly grounded to the block. Using quality fuel at the recommended octane and keeping the cooling system healthy helps reduce knock events and workload on the sensor.

1. Replacement is straightforward but fiddly on the 2.0/2.4 as the sensor sits on the block under the intake side, the V6 has one per bank beneath the upper manifold. The PHEV shares the 2.0L engine layout.
2. Always disconnect the battery, avoid dropping the new sensor, and torque it to the factory spec—overtightening can crush the piezo element, undertightening reduces sensitivity.
3. Route the loom away from hot spots and don’t use thread sealants that can affect grounding. An OEM-equivalent part is strongly recommended.

Driving with a failed sensor isn’t ideal, the ECU will usually pull timing to stay safe, which feels sluggish and can burn more fuel. Sort it promptly and the Outlander will get its spark back.

Where is the knock sensor on a 2015 Outlander?

On the 2.0L/2.4L four-cylinder (including PHEV), it’s bolted to the engine block on the intake side, roughly mid-block under the manifold. On the 3.0L V6, there are two sensors—one per bank—mounted inboard beneath the upper intake. Access often requires removing intake ducting, shields or the upper manifold on the V6.

Do I need to replace the knock sensor as part of routine servicing?

No. It isn’t a scheduled replacement item. It’s checked when diagnosing a detonation complaint, a check engine light (P0325/P0330), or wiring damage. If the sensor or its loom is oil-soaked, heat-baked, cracked, or out of spec, that’s the time to replace it.

Is the PHEV’s petrol engine fitted with a knock sensor as well?

Yes. The 2015 Outlander PHEV uses a 2.0L petrol engine that relies on a knock sensor to manage timing under varying loads and hybrid operating modes, just like the non-hybrid four-cylinder models.