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Parts for your 2015 Mitsubishi Asx-Manifold gasket
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2015 Mitsubishi ASX manifold gasket — what it does and when to replace it
A manifold gasket is fitted to the 2015 Mitsubishi ASX. Both the petrol (4B11 2.0L and 4A92 1.6L) and diesel (4N14 2.2L) engines use intake and exhaust manifold gaskets between the manifold flanges and the cylinder head. This is documented in Mitsubishi Motors workshop manuals (Engine – Intake and Exhaust sections) and the Mitsubishi ASA Electronic Parts Catalogue for MY2015 ASX/RVR/Outlander Sport, which list distinct intake and exhaust manifold gasket part entries. Major gasket manufacturers (Elring, Victor Reinz, Fel‑Pro) also catalogue direct-fit manifold gaskets for the 2015 model, further confirming fitment.
The manifold gasket’s job is simple but critical: it seals the join between the manifold and the head so air, fuel mix, exhaust gases and—on some setups—coolant passages stay exactly where they should. On the intake side it prevents vacuum leaks that can cause lean running, rough idle and fuel trims going haywire. On the exhaust side it keeps hot gases inside the manifold, protecting the engine bay, maintaining turbo/catalyst efficiency and ensuring the oxygen sensors get clean, consistent readings.
Manifold gaskets aren’t a scheduled service item on the ASX, but they’re cheap insurance any time the manifold is removed. Owners should keep an ear and nose out for tell-tales:
- Intake leak: hissing/whistling at idle, hunting idle, hesitation, possible lean codes (e.g., P0171).
- Exhaust leak: ticking on cold start that quietens as it warms, sooty marks near the flange, exhaust smells in the cabin, sluggish low‑down torque.
If chasing an intake leak, a smoke test or careful use of carb cleaner around the flange (with engine idling) can help pinpoint the spot—only if safe and well‑ventilated. For exhaust, look for black soot tracks, loose or heat-cycled fasteners and warped mating faces.
When replacing, go with OE or quality aftermarket gaskets: multi‑layer steel for exhaust, and moulded/composite or rubber‑coated metal for intake. Clean the mating faces, check studs and nuts, and follow the factory torque values and tightening sequence—usually working from the centre out, in stages. Avoid slathering on sealant unless the Mitsubishi manual specifically calls for a dab at corners or joints