Parts for your 2014 Toyota Vitz|yaris-Crank angle sensor

2014 Toyota Vitz/Yaris crank angle sensor (crankshaft position sensor)

Technical documentation confirms the 2014 Toyota Vitz/Yaris is fitted with a crank angle sensor (Toyota typically calls it the crankshaft position sensor). It’s essential to engine management on the 1KR‑FE (1.0), 1NR‑FE (1.3) and 1NZ‑FE (1.5) petrol engines used in this model range.

• Toyota Service/Repair Manual (2014 Yaris/Vitz NSP130/NCP131/KSP130): Engine Control – SFI System – “Crankshaft Position Sensor” function and diagnostics.
• Toyota Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD), 2014 Yaris/Vitz: CKP “NE” signal input to the ECM for engine speed/position.
• Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC), 2014 Yaris/Vitz: lists “Sensor, Crank Position” for 1KR‑FE, 1NR‑FE and 1NZ‑FE engines.

The crank angle sensor on a 2014 Toyota Vitz/Yaris is the quiet achiever that keeps the engine perfectly in time. It reads a toothed wheel on the crankshaft and feeds the ECU a clean stream of position and speed data so the spark and fuel arrive bang on. Paired with the cam sensor, it lets the ECU run sequential injection and VVT‑i properly. If the signal drops out, there’s no reliable timing reference—so the car can crank all day and never fire.

On the 1.0, 1.3 and 1.5 petrol engines, the sensor sits low on the block reading the crank’s reluctor wheel—typically near the timing cover or bellhousing area. It’s a magnetic/Hall‑effect style pickup that’s built to last, but like any under‑bonnet electronics it lives with heat, vibration and road grime. That’s why good servicing habits matter. Avoid blasting the connector with a pressure washer, keep an eye on the loom routing so it doesn’t chafe, and fix any oil leaks that might soak the plug. There’s no scheduled replacement interval, it’s a “fit and forget” item until symptoms or fault codes (think P0335–P0339) say otherwise.

Signs it’s on the way out include long cranking, sudden cut‑outs when hot, rough idle, or a dead‑no‑start with the tacho not budging. If replacement is needed, opt for a quality OEM‑spec sensor to keep the signal crisp. The swap is usually straightforward: disconnect the battery, unplug the connector, remove the retaining bolt, twist the old sensor out, lightly oil the new O‑ring, refit and torque the bolt to the factory spec for your engine code. Clear any codes and take it for a gentle drive so the ECU relearns trims. Many home DIYers with basic tools can handle it in under an hour, but a trusted workshop will have it sorted quickly and can scope‑check the signal if the fault is intermittent.

Where is the crank angle sensor on a 2014 Vitz/Yaris?

It’s mounted low on the engine block reading a toothed wheel on the crankshaft—typically by the timing chain cover or near the bellhousing area. Exact spot varies a touch between the 1KR‑FE (1.0), 1NR‑FE (1.3) and 1NZ‑FE (1.5), but it’s always positioned to “see” the crank trigger wheel. Access is often easiest from underneath with the car safely supported.

What symptoms point to a failing crank angle sensor on this model?

Common signs include long cranking or no‑start, hot stalls, rough idle, misfires at low speed, erratic or dead tacho while cranking, and stored fault codes like P0335–P0339. Because the ECU needs a clean CKP signal for spark and fuel timing, any dropout can feel like the engine randomly switches off then wakes back up.

Does it need regular replacement, and is DIY okay?

There’s no routine replacement interval—it’s not a consumable. Replace it only if it’s faulty or damaged. DIY is fine for confident owners with basic tools: disconnect the battery, swap the sensor and O‑ring, and follow the factory torque spec. If the engine still plays up, a workshop can scope the CKP/CMP signals and check the wiring for intermittent faults.