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Parts for your 2014 Toyota Land cruiser-Steering rack

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SAS Steering Rack End - SR3901

SAS Steering Rack End - SR3901

$106
Fitment Notes:
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SAS Steering Rack End - RE900LH
Clearance

SAS Steering Rack End - RE900LH

$29
Fitment Notes:
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SAS Steering Rack End - RE001

SAS Steering Rack End - RE001

$77
Fitment Notes:
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Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak 355mL - 10008

Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak 355mL - 10008

$44
Fitment Notes:
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Rislone Power Steering Repair 500ml - 44650

Rislone Power Steering Repair 500ml - 44650

$42
Fitment Notes:
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2014 Toyota Land Cruiser steering rack: fitment, purpose, and servicing tips

For the 2014 Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series (J200, including URJ200 petrol and VDJ200 diesel), a hydraulic rack-and-pinion steering rack is fitted. This is supported by Toyota’s Repair Manual steering section describing a “Steering Gear (for Rack and Pinion Power Steering)”, Toyota’s Electronic Parts Catalog listing a “Steering Gear Assembly (Rack & Pinion)” with OE part numbers in the 44250-60xxx range, and Lexus LX570 technical literature (the LC200’s sibling) noting rack-and-pinion steering with VGRS on some variants. Recirculating-ball boxes are used on the separate 70 Series, not the 200 Series.

On the 2014 Land Cruiser, the steering rack converts the driver’s input at the wheel into lateral movement that turns the wheels. It’s engineered for heavy touring and towing, combining hydraulic assist for light effort with robust tie rods and rack mounts for off-road punishment. Where fitted, VGRS (Variable Gear Ratio Steering) subtly adjusts steering response at speed, giving stable highway tracking and friendly parking manoeuvres.

As part of routine servicing, a workshop will typically:

  • Inspect rack boots for splits, weeping fluid, or grit ingress.
  • Check inner and outer tie rod ends for play and torn dust seals.
  • Confirm power steering fluid level and condition, top up with Toyota-approved fluid as specified in the owner’s manual.
  • Torque-check rack mounting bushes and subframe fasteners after heavy off-road work.
  • Road test for free play, wander, shimmy, or assist noise.

Tell-tales that the rack or associated parts need attention include a notchy feel on centre, oil spots under the front crossmember, uneven tyre wear, clunks when turning, or assist noise at full lock. If fluid is dark or smells burnt, a flush may be recommended to prolong pump and rack seal life.

When replacement is on the cards, most owners choose a quality new or remanufactured rack with new inner tie rods and boots. A proper install includes centring the rack, renewing mounting bushes as needed, bleeding the hydraulic system, performing a wheel alignment, and—on VGRS-equipped vehicles—carrying out a neutral position/zero-point calibration with a scan tool. Genuine-spec fluid and clean technique are vital to avoid aeration and premature seal wear.

For frequent water crossings or corrugations, more regular inspections pay off. Keeping underbody guards intact, avoiding prolonged full-lock holds, and maintaining correct tyre pressures will help the rack live a long, quiet life across Aussie and Kiwi roads and tracks.

Popular questions

Does the 2014 Land Cruiser use a steering rack or a steering box?

The 2014 200 Series uses a hydraulic rack-and-pinion steering rack. Technical references include Toyota’s Repair Manual steering section titled for rack-and-pinion systems and the Toyota EPC listing a Steering Gear Assembly (Rack &, Pinion) for J200. The 70 Series is the model that retains a steering box.

How long should the steering rack last on a 200 Series, and what shortens its life?

With clean fluid, intact boots, and good alignment, many racks run well beyond 200,000 km. Premature wear is usually linked to torn boots letting grit in, chronic fluid contamination, impacts to tie rods off-road, or holding full lock for long periods which spikes hydraulic pressure and stresses seals.

Is it better to rebuild the Land Cruiser’s rack or replace it?

Where a reputable remanufactured unit with new seals, bushings, and properly set preload is available, replacement is often the most time- and cost-effective route. A local rebuild can be fine if done by a specialist with OE-spec parts. Either way, pair it with new inner/outer tie rods, a fluid flush, alignment, and VGRS calibration if applicable.

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