Parts for your 2014 Suzuki Splash-Map sensor

2014 Suzuki Splash MAP Sensor: what it does, where it lives, and how to look after it

Yes, the 2014 Suzuki Splash uses a MAP sensor. Technical sources for the Splash/Ritz platform confirm this: the Suzuki Service Manual for K10B/K12B engines (Engine Control System section) lists a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor as a key input to the ECM, with test procedures for voltage and kPa values, Autodata’s model coverage for Splash petrol notes a MAP sensor on the intake manifold, and common OE suppliers (Denso/Bosch application guides) show a direct-mount manifold pressure sensor for K‑series petrol and a boost/MAP sensor for the 1.3 DDiS diesel. Taken together, those references make the MAP sensor very much relevant to the 2014 Splash.

On the Splash, the MAP sensor tells the engine computer how much air pressure is in the intake manifold so it can juggle fuel, ignition timing, and idle control. It’s how the little Suzuki keeps things tidy on fuel and emissions, whether it’s puttering around town or copping a bootful up a hill. On the K‑series petrol, the sensor is a small, three‑pin unit bolted to the intake manifold with an O‑ring seal, the diesel variant uses a boost/MAP sensor to monitor charge pressure under load.

Owners who are chasing a rough idle, flat spots, heavy fuel use, or a stubborn check‑engine light (typical codes include P0105–P0108) should have the MAP sensor and its neighbourhood checked. Often it’s not the sensor itself but a vacuum leak, oily sludge in the manifold, or a loose connector that’s causing grief.

• Quick checks worth doing:
  • Make sure the electrical plug is snug and clean, green crust on pins is a giveaway for poor contact.
  • Inspect the manifold port and O‑ring. If the O‑ring’s flattened or the port’s dirty, the readings go pear‑shaped.
  • Avoid spraying cleaners directly into the sensor port, if cleaning is needed, use sensor‑safe spray gently and let it dry fully.
• Replacement tips for DIYers:
  • Disconnect the battery, unclip the connector, remove the single retaining screw, and ease the sensor straight out.
  • Lightly oil a new O‑ring, seat the new sensor squarely, and snug the screw—no gorilla tactics.
  • Clear fault codes and let the engine idle for a few minutes so the ECM can settle. Some cars may do a brief relearn drive.

As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to inspect the sensor, the manifold port, and the harness every 20–30,000 kilometres, especially if the car sees short trips or has a bit of blow‑by. Keeping that MAP signal clean helps the Splash feel perky and keeps the pumps from working overtime at the bowser.

Popular questions about the 2014 Suzuki Splash MAP sensor

Where is the MAP sensor on a 2014 Splash?
On the 1.0 and 1.2 K‑series petrol engines it’s mounted directly on the intake manifold with a single screw and a three‑pin connector, typically at the rear or top side of the manifold. On the 1.3 DDiS diesel it’s a boost/MAP sensor on the intake tract/manifold near the EGR/throttle assembly.

What fault codes point to a dodgy MAP sensor?
Common codes include P0105 (MAP/Baro circuit), P0106 (range/performance), P0107 (low input) and P0108 (high input). Sometimes P0068 (throttle/MAP correlation) pops up when there’s an intake leak or gunk in the throttle body. Always rule out wiring issues and vacuum leaks before condemning the sensor.

Does the Splash have a MAF as well as a MAP?
The petrol K10B/K12B Splash is a speed‑density setup, so it relies on the MAP sensor (and intake air temperature) rather than a MAF. The diesel DDiS typically runs a MAP/boost sensor and, depending on calibration, may also use a MAF upstream to monitor airflow—both are listed in diesel sensor line‑ups in workshop data.