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Parts for your 2014 Suzuki Splash-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2014 Suzuki Splash engine mounts: purpose, care, and when to replace
Engine mounts are absolutely fitted to the 2014 Suzuki Splash. Technical references including the Suzuki Splash/Agila B workshop manual (Engine Mechanical – Engine Mounting System), Suzuki’s Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC group for “Engine Mounting”), and Opel/Vauxhall TIS for the platform-shared Agila B confirm right-hand (engine) and left-hand (gearbox) mounts plus a lower torque-rod/roll stopper. So the part is relevant and critical on this model.
On the Splash, the mounts do two big jobs: they hold the engine and transaxle securely in the bay, and they keep vibration out of the cabin. The hydraulic and rubber elements soak up harshness, while the torque mount controls fore–aft rock when taking off, shifting, or climbing hills. That protects driveshafts, exhaust flex joints, and even keeps the gear selector action feeling tidy.
As part of routine servicing, a quick visual once-over goes a long way. Good workshops check mounts every 20,000 km or at scheduled services. They look for perished or cracked rubber, collapsed positions, shiny witness marks from metal-to-metal contact, and any hydraulic fluid weeping from fluid-filled mounts. Oil or coolant leaks from above can soften the rubber, so fixing leaks early helps the mounts live longer.
- Typical symptoms on a 2014 Splash: more vibration at idle in Drive, a thud on take-off or lift-off, excessive engine movement under the bonnet, or the gear lever shimmying under load.
- Common setup: 3–4 mounts total — right-hand engine mount, left-hand transmission mount, and a lower torque-rod (dog-bone/roll stopper).
Replacement isn’t complex but does need proper support of the powertrain. A jack with a timber block under the sump or an engine support bar is standard practice. Fasteners are often torque-to-yield on late-model Suzukis, so new bolts may be specified, the workshop manual torque/angle figures should be followed and final tighten done at normal ride height to avoid preloading the rubber. Labour time generally sits around 1–2 hours per mount depending on access and corrosion.
For parts choice, OE or quality OEM mounts keep the Splash quiet and smooth. If one mount has clearly failed, checking the others is smart — the torque-rod and the top mounts share the load. Many owners see replacement somewhere after 100,000–150,000 km, earlier if the car lives with lots of stop–start or has had fluid leaks. Done right, fresh mounts bring the Splash back to its easygoing, low-NVH best.
Popular questions
How many engine mounts does a 2014 Suzuki Splash have?
The Splash typically runs three to four mounts: a right-hand engine mount, a left-hand transmission mount, and a lower torque-rod (also called a roll stopper or dog-bone). Some variants list an additional small roll stop, but the core trio is common across K10B and K12B petrol engines.
This layout keeps the engine centred and controls rotation, which is why replacing a worn torque-rod can make a big difference to take-off clunks and shift feel.
What are the signs an engine mount needs replacing on a Splash?
Expect more vibration at idle, knocks when selecting Reverse or accelerating, and visible engine rock when blipping the throttle. You might also hear a dull thud over bumps or see the gear lever twitch under load.
Inspection may show cracked rubber, a sagging mount, or fluid seepage on hydraulic types. Any of those are cues to replace before extra stress transfers to exhausts, shafts, or the transmission case.
Is it safe to drive with a failed engine mount?
Short trips at gentle throttle might be manageable, but it’s not ideal. Excess movement can stress driveshafts and the exhaust flex, and in severe cases cause metal-to-metal contact.
If clunks are frequent or vibration is harsh, booking prompt replacement is the best way to avoid collateral damage and keep the Splash feeling tidy.