Parts for your 2014 Suzuki Splash-Crank angle sensor

2014 Suzuki Splash crank-angle sensor — fitment, purpose and service tips

Technical sources confirm the 2014 Suzuki Splash does use a crank-angle sensor (more commonly called a crankshaft position sensor, CKP). Whether it’s the 1.0 K10B, 1.2 K12B petrol, or 1.3 DDiS diesel, the engine control module relies on this sensor for timing and diagnostics, so it’s very much relevant to this model year.

• Suzuki Splash (A5B) workshop/service manual – Engine Control System: CKP sensor description, signals and diagnostics.
• Suzuki Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) – Splash 2014 listings for “Sensor, Crankshaft Position” across K10B/K12B/DDiS variants (part numbers vary by VIN).
• Major OE supplier catalogues (e.g., Bosch, NTK) list direct-fit crankshaft sensors for Suzuki Splash 2008–2014, K12B/K10B engines.

The 2014 Suzuki Splash’s crank-angle sensor is the quiet achiever that tells the ECU exactly where the crank is and how fast it’s spinning. Reading a toothed wheel on the crank, it supplies the timing reference for spark and fuel events, helps with idle stability and variable valve timing decisions, and lets the ECU monitor misfires to meet OBD requirements. If it drops out, the Splash may crank but not fire, stall suddenly at idle, or throw codes like P0335/P0336. It’s not a scheduled service item, but it deserves a look whenever the bonnet’s up.

For routine servicing, a quick visual is worth it: check the sensor body and plug for heat-hardening, cracked insulation or oil contamination, and make sure the harness isn’t rubbing on the driveshaft or exhaust. Coastal and outback conditions can be tough on connectors, so a light clean and dielectric grease on the terminals can help. Oil leaks from crank seals can also foul the pickup area, fixing the leak protects the sensor and the reluctor teeth.

Replacement is usually straightforward. Confirm the fault first with a scan and, if possible, a scope check for a clean waveform. Choose a quality OEM-equivalent sensor, match the connector and O-ring, and disconnect the battery before starting. Access is typically from underneath, the sensor sits low on the block near the crank pulley or at the bellhousing, held by a single bolt. Clean the mounting face, fit the new sensor squarely, and tighten to the workshop spec. Clear codes and perform a crank pattern/idle relearn if your scan tool supports it, otherwise, a warm-up and short drive cycle generally does the trick. Most workshops allow 0.3–0.8 hours depending on engine and access. When sorted, the Splash is back to clean starts, smooth idle and proper fuel economy.

• Common symptoms to watch for:
  • Long crank or no-start when hot
  • Random stalling at idle or low speed
  • Tacho dropouts, rough running, poor economy
  • Check engine light with P0335/P0336

FAQ

Where is the crank-angle sensor on a 2014 Suzuki Splash?
It’s mounted low on the engine. On the petrol K10B/K12B it’s typically near the crank pulley or at the transmission bellhousing, on the DDiS diesel it’s usually at the bellhousing reading the flywheel. Best access is from underneath with the car safely supported, look for a small two-wire sensor held by a single bolt.

What fault codes or signs point to a bad crank-angle sensor?
Codes P0335 (crank sensor circuit) and P0336 (range/performance) are common. Drivers often report a sudden stall, extended cranking, or no-start when hot. A dead rev counter while cranking, intermittent misfire and a flashing check engine light can also show up.

Does a new sensor need coding or a relearn?
No coding is usually required. Many Splash ECUs will self-learn after a warm-up and short drive. Some scan tools offer a CKP/CMP relearn or idle relearn routine, which can speed up stabilisation and is a good idea if it’s available.