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Parts for your 2013 Volkswagen Amarok-Brake booster
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 80 Series (2 Bolt Brake Master Cylinder) - DBAMV1003
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 80 Series (4 Bolt Brake Master Cylinder) - DBAMV1004
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 70 Series 8/1999 - 8/12 - DBAMV1002
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2013 Volkswagen Amarok Brake Booster
Yes, the 2013 Volkswagen Amarok is fitted with a vacuum-assisted brake booster (also called a brake servo). This is documented in Volkswagen’s factory repair information (ErWin: Brake system – Brake servo, Amarok 2010>), the ETKA parts catalogue for model code 2H under group 61 (Brake servo and master cylinder), and VW’s Self‑Study Programme for Amarok which describes the diesel engine’s vacuum pump supplying the brake booster. So the brake booster is absolutely relevant on the 2013 Amarok.
The brake booster’s job is to use engine vacuum to multiply the driver’s pedal force, so braking feels light and confident without needing to stomp on the pedal. On diesel Amaroks, vacuum is generated by a mechanical or electric vacuum pump because there’s no manifold vacuum like a petrol. The booster sits on the firewall and works with the tandem master cylinder to provide strong, repeatable braking — handy when the ute’s loaded or towing.
As part of regular servicing, the booster itself is largely maintenance‑free, but the vacuum supply and one‑way check valve deserve attention. A quick driveway test helps: with the engine off, pump the brake pedal a few times to firm it up, hold pressure, then start the engine — the pedal should drop slightly as the booster assists. If it stays rock hard, there’s a vacuum or booster issue that needs sorting.
- Signs it’s crook: noticeably hard pedal, longer stopping distances, a hissing noise near the pedal or firewall, rough idle from a vacuum leak, or the pedal not dropping on start‑up.
- Service tips: inspect the vacuum hose for cracks, confirm the check valve flows one way only, and verify vacuum level (typically around −0.7 to −0.9 bar) with a gauge.
If replacement is needed, the booster is removed from the firewall after disconnecting the pushrod at the pedal and separating the master cylinder. On some setups you’ll need to open the brake hydraulics, if so, bleed the system thoroughly and run the ABS bleed function with a suitable diagnostic tool to clear any trapped air. Always use the correct brake fluid (DOT 4 meeting VW specs), protect painted surfaces from spills, and follow factory torque and adjustment procedures — especially the pushrod length — to keep pedal feel consistent.
Given braking is safety‑critical, most owners in Australia and New Zealand will prefer a qualified workshop to handle diagnosis and replacement, particularly if towing or heading off‑road is on the cards.
Popular questions
Does the 2013 Amarok definitely have a brake booster?
Yes. Volkswagen’s repair manuals and ETKA parts listings show a vacuum brake servo on all 2013 Amarok variants. Diesel models rely on a vacuum pump to feed it, which is why a failed pump or perished vacuum hose can make the pedal go hard.
What are the common symptoms of a failing Amarok brake booster?
The standout sign is a hard pedal that doesn’t ease when the engine starts. You might also hear a hiss from the firewall area, notice rough idling from a vacuum leak, or feel the ute taking longer to pull up. If any of these crop up, it’s time for a proper inspection.
How often should the brake booster and vacuum lines be checked?
Have them looked over at each service or at least every 20,000 km. The booster itself is sealed, but the vacuum hose, check valve, and pump are wear items. In dusty or hot conditions, or if you tow, consider more frequent checks.