Parts for your 2013 Toyota Hiace-Strut mounts

2013 Toyota HiAce strut mounts — fitted or not?

Short answer: a 2013 Toyota HiAce (H200 series) doesn’t use strut mounts. Toyota’s own technical material lists a double wishbone front end with torsion bar springs and separate shock absorbers, not a MacPherson strut layout. Because there’s no strut assembly, there’s no strut top bearing or “strut mount” to replace.

Technical sources that spell this out include: Toyota HiAce 200 Series Repair Manual/service publications for the H200 platform (2004–2019), the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue for 2013 HiAce (front suspension group shows control arms, torsion bars and separate front shock absorbers, with no strut top mount/bearing), and 2013 market spec sheets for Australia/NZ noting “front suspension: double wishbone with torsion bars and stabiliser bar.” These documents identify upper and lower ball joints, control arm bushes, torsion bars and shock absorbers — but not struts or strut mounts.

Why no strut mounts on a 2013toyotahiace? A strut mount is specific to MacPherson strut systems, where the damper and spring form a load‑bearing, steering pivot. The HiAce’s double wishbone design carries vehicle weight through the control arms and torsion bars, while a separate shock absorber manages damping. Steering pivots on the ball joints, not through a strut top bearing. So instead of a strut mount, the HiAce uses simple shock absorber upper/lower bushes and seats, plus control arm, sway bar and radius/strut‑rod bushes.

If a HiAce owner’s chasing front‑end noises and has been told to replace “strut mounts”, they’re almost certainly dealing with one of these instead:

• Front shock absorber upper/lower bushes or worn shocks
• Upper and lower ball joints (play or noise over bumps)
• Lower/upper control arm bushes and radius/strut‑rod bushes
• Sway bar D‑mounts and link bushes
• Tie‑rod ends and rack/box mounts (steering clunks)

Good servicing practice on a HiAce front end is a periodic inspection (every 20,000–40,000 km or annually if doing heavy loads or rough roads): check shock absorber bushings and leaks, ball joint play, control arm and radius‑rod bushes for cracking, and sway bar hardware. Replace in pairs left/right, torque bushes at ride height, and get a wheel alignment after any arm or ball joint work. When ordering parts, ask for “front shock top bush kit” or the specific bush/ball joint — not “strut mounts” — to avoid the wrong bits turning up.

Popular questions about 2013 Toyota HiAce “strut mounts”

Do 2013 HiAce vans actually have strut mounts?

No — they run a double wishbone front with torsion bars and separate shocks, so there’s no MacPherson strut and no strut top bearing/mount to service. Front end noises usually trace back to shock bushes, ball joints, control arm or radius‑rod bushes, or sway bar links.

What should be replaced instead of strut mounts if there’s a front‑end clunk?

Start with shock absorber bushes and the shocks themselves, then check upper/lower ball joints, lower control arm and radius‑rod bushes, sway bar D‑mounts and links, plus tie‑rod ends. These are the common HiAce wear items people mistake for “strut mounts”.

I’ve seen “strut top” kits online — will they fit my 2013 HiAce?

Those kits are for MacPherson‑strut cars and won’t suit a HiAce. For this van you’ll want a front shock top bush kit or specific suspension bushes/ball joints as per the HiAce’s double wishbone layout.