Parts for your 2013 Toyota Crown-Wheel studs nuts

2013 Toyota Crown wheel studs and nuts

Wheel studs and nuts are absolutely used on the 2013 Toyota Crown. Technical references such as the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue for the GRS210/AWS210 series list a “Stud, hub (for disc wheel)” and matching “Nut, hub” for this model range (typical examples include stud P/N 90942-02049 and nut P/N 90942-01058, M12 x 1.5). Toyota repair literature for this generation also specifies wheel nut tightening torque around 103 N·m and a five-stud arrangement on a 114.3 mm PCD. So, if it’s a 2013 Crown, it’s running wheel studs with conical-seat nuts, not European-style wheel bolts.

On the Crown, the studs are press-fitted into the hub and the nuts clamp the wheel to the hub face. That clamping force is what keeps the wheel secure, true, and quiet at speed. They’re simple, strong, and make wheel changes quick—ideal for regular tyre rotations and brake work common on NZ and Aussie roads.

If the Crown’s wheel studs or nuts are due for attention, here’s the go:

• Purpose and spec: Five M12 x 1.5 studs with 60-degree conical-seat nuts (most OEM nuts take a 21 mm hex). The hub spigot centres the wheel, the studs and nuts provide the clamping force.
• Service tips: Install wheel nuts dry—no oil or anti-seize on threads or seats, as Toyota service info specifies dry torque. Tighten in a star pattern to about 103 N·m with a calibrated torque wrench. After any wheel-off job, re-check torque after 50–100 km.
• When to replace: Replace any stud with damaged, stretched, or corroded threads, or if a stud spins in the hub. Swap out rounded, swollen, or rusty nuts. If more than one stud is missing or compromised on a wheel, the car shouldn’t be driven until fixed.
• Fitting technique: Press out damaged studs from the rear of the hub and press or draw in new OEM-grade studs fully home—avoid heavy hammering that can bruise bearings. Clean threads with a wire brush or a thread chaser, not a cutting tap.
• Workshop habits: Rattle guns can over-torque and stretch studs. Use torque sticks only for snugging, then finish with a torque wrench. Keep the hub face and wheel mounting pad clean—no rust scale or paint high spots.

Across Athlete, Royal, and Hybrid variants, specs can vary slightly by trim or market, so it’s smart to confirm the exact torque and part numbers on the vehicle’s placard or Toyota service data.

Popular questions about 2013 Toyota Crown wheel studs and nuts

What’s the correct wheel nut torque?
Toyota service information for the GRS/AWS210 Crown lists wheel nut torque around 103 N·m. Tighten in a star pattern, then re-check after 50–100 km. Always verify against the owner’s manual or local service data for your specific trim.

What size are the studs and nuts?
They’re typically M12 x 1.5 with a 60-degree conical seat and a 5 x 114.3 mm bolt pattern. OEM nuts commonly use a 21 mm hex. Confirming against the exact variant is recommended.

Can anti-seize or lubricant be used on wheel nuts?
No. Toyota procedures call for dry, clean threads and seats. Lubricants change friction and can lead to over-clamping or loosening. Keep the threads and cone seats clean and torque correctly.