Parts for your 2013 Toyota Crown-Control arms

2013 Toyota Crown control arms — what they do and how to look after them

Based on Toyota’s Electronic Parts Catalogue, the S210-series Crown New Car Features and Repair Manual, and common aftermarket catalogues for the 2013 model year, the 2013 Toyota Crown is definitely fitted with control arms. Up front it uses a double-wishbone layout (upper and lower control arms), while the rear is a multi-link arrangement with several arms controlling toe, camber and longitudinal location. Those factory documents and parts listings all show complete arms, bushes and ball joints available for service.

On this Crown, the control arms are the backbone of the suspension geometry. They locate the hubs relative to the body, let the wheels move up and down smoothly, and keep camber and caster where they should be so the big Toyota tracks straight and treats its tyres kindly. Bushes in the arms isolate vibration and noise, while ball joints give the steering and suspension the freedom to articulate without slop. When everything’s tight, the car feels planted, brakes consistently and wears tyres evenly — exactly what a luxury sedan should deliver.

For servicing, it pays to give the arms, bushes and ball joints a proper look at every service or at least every 10,000–15,000 km. In Aussie and Kiwi conditions — heat, road corrugations, speed humps and the odd pothole — the rubber can harden, crack or tear, and ball joint boots can split. Any play, torn boots or oil-soaked bushes are a cue for replacement. Owners can replace individual bushes or ball joints on some arms, but many prefer complete arms for a quicker, longer-lasting fix and fresh pivots all round. Always torque arm bolts at normal ride height, and book a four-wheel alignment after any arm or bush work — the Crown’s multi-link rear especially depends on correct settings.

• Watch for clunks over bumps, steering shimmy, wandering at motorway speeds, or inner/outer tyre edge wear.
• Use quality OEM or reputable aftermarket arms/bushes, cheap rubber can perish quickly.
• If corrosion has seized cam bolts, plan on new hardware. A workshop familiar with Toyota multi-link setups is a win.

Look after the control arms and the 2013 Toyota Crown rewards with quiet, confident ride and tidy tyre bills.

What are the common signs the Crown’s control arm bushes or ball joints are worn?

Tell-tales include clunks or knocks on rough roads, a vague or wandering feel on the motorway, steering shimmy under braking, and uneven tyre wear on the inner or outer edges. Visual checks may show cracked or oil-soaked bushes and split ball joint boots. Any free play found with a lever or during a wheel shake test means it’s time to act.

Do you need a wheel alignment after replacing control arms on a 2013 Crown?

Yes. Both the double-wishbone front and multi-link rear depend on precise geometry. Changing arms or bushes can shift camber, caster or toe. A proper four-wheel alignment after the work locks in stable handling and even tyre wear.

Can just the bushes be replaced, or is a complete control arm swap better?

Both are valid. Pressing in quality bushes can be cost‑effective if the arm and ball joint are sound. If the ball joint is worn, the bush sleeves are seized, or time matters, a complete arm gives fresh joints and bushes in one hit and often saves labour.