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Parts for your 2013 Suzuki Splash-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob 300A (Contacts Rated 300A @ 12V) - 61045BL
2013 Suzuki Splash engine mount — what it does and when to sort it
Technical sources confirm that engine mounts are definitely used on the 2013 Suzuki Splash. The Suzuki Splash/Ritz K10B/K12B workshop manual includes an Engine and Transmission Mounting section detailing the right-hand (engine/timing side) insulator, left-hand (gearbox) mount and the rear torque mount. Suzuki’s Electronic Parts Catalogue for MY2013 Splash lists these mount assemblies and hardware, and the platform-sharing Opel/Vauxhall Agila B service documentation shows the same layout. So, the engine-mount is absolutely relevant on this model.
On the 2013 Splash, the engine mounts secure the engine and gearbox to the subframe while isolating vibration so the cabin stays calm. The right-hand mount usually carries most of the engine’s weight, the left supports the transmission, and the rear torque rod keeps the drivetrain from rocking under take-off and gear changes. When the rubber (or fluid-filled) insulators age, they harden, crack or leak, leading to more vibration, thumps on acceleration and extra movement you can sometimes feel through the pedals or steering wheel.
As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to inspect the mounts every 40,000–60,000 kilometres or whenever there’s a complaint about vibration at idle. Look for split rubber, collapsed height, shiny metal-to-metal contact, or fluid weeping from a hydraulic mount. Oil leaks from above will also perish mounts faster, so any rocker cover or front crank seal seep should be fixed promptly.
- Common signs it’s time: harsher idle, clunk on take-off or when shifting, excessive engine rock, and visible cracking or leaks at the mount.
- Best practice: if one mount has failed, assess the others. On small hatches like the Splash, replacing the torque rod and the main side mount together can restore refinement.
Replacement on the Splash is straightforward for a trained tech: support the engine from above or below (never by the sump alone), remove the mount bracketry, position the new mount and torque all fasteners to the workshop manual spec at normal ride height. Where Suzuki specifies single‑use hardware, fit new bolts. Aftermarket and genuine options are available, choosing quality rubber or OE-style hydraulic mounts keeps the NVH close to factory. No wheel alignment is required, but it’s wise to recheck clearances and road-test for idle smoothness and driveline thumps. With decent parts and proper installation, fresh mounts can make the little Splash feel noticeably tighter and quieter.
Technical references (no links): Suzuki Splash/Ritz K10B/K12B Workshop Manual — Engine and Transmission Mounting, Suzuki Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) — Engine Mounting components for 2013 Splash, Opel/Vauxhall Agila B service literature — powertrain mounting layout.
Popular questions
How long do engine mounts last on a 2013 Suzuki Splash?
In local conditions, many Splash engine mounts last 100,000–160,000 kilometres, but life varies with heat, stop‑start driving and oil exposure. If vibrations creep in at idle or there’s a knock on take‑off, get them checked rather than waiting for a hard failure.
What are the tell‑tale symptoms of a worn mount?
Expect shakier idle through the seats, a clunk when shifting from Reverse to Drive (or on throttle on/off), and more engine movement when blipping the throttle under the bonnet. Visual clues include cracked rubber or a collapsed mount sitting lower than it should.
Do all the mounts need to be replaced at once?
Not always, but it’s worth assessing the set. If the main right‑hand mount has failed and the torque rod is tired, doing both can save labour later and restore smoothness. A trusted workshop can advise based on condition and budget.