Parts for your 2013 Subaru Tribeca-Wheel studs nuts

2013 Subaru Tribeca wheel studs & nuts — what they do and how to look after them

Yes, the 2013 Subaru Tribeca uses wheel studs and separate wheel nuts (not wheel bolts). This is confirmed by Subaru’s Factory Service Manual for the Tribeca chassis and the Owner’s Manual wheel and tyre section, which specify press‑in wheel studs on the hubs and tapered-seat wheel nuts tightened to 120 N·m (about 88.5 lb‑ft).

On the Tribeca, wheel studs and nuts do the heavy lifting of clamping each wheel securely to the hub. The studs are splined and pressed into the hub from the back, the nuts run onto the studs to provide the clamping force. Subaru’s design keeps servicing simple: a damaged stud or nut can be replaced individually without changing the whole hub.

For day‑to‑day servicing, this part of the car is pretty straightforward but deserves respect. The basics are simple: clean the mating surfaces, seat the wheel properly on the hub, and torque the nuts to 120 N·m in a star pattern with a calibrated torque wrench. Subaru’s technical literature calls for clean, dry threads and seats—no grease or anti‑seize on the studs or the nut tapers—so the torque translates to proper clamp load. After a wheel has been off, it’s smart practice to re‑check torque after 50–100 kilometres.

Regular checks fit neatly into tyre rotations (roughly every 10,000 km) and any brake work. Look for rusty or stretched studs, cross‑threaded nuts, and damaged 60‑degree taper seats. If a nut won’t spin on smoothly by hand, don’t force it with a rattle gun—bin it and fit a new one. Impact guns are handy for removal, but tightening should be finished with a torque wrench to avoid over‑torque that can stretch studs or crush aluminium wheel seats.

Replacing a worn or broken Tribeca stud is a routine job described in Subaru’s service procedures. The brake caliper and rotor come off, the old stud is pressed or driven out, and a new stud is drawn fully home by its splines—ideally with a press, or carefully using a stack of washers and an open‑ended nut. Always check knurl size and thread pitch (M12 × 1.25 on the Tribeca) to match OEM spec, and replace any nut with a chewed taper. Done right, the wheel will sit true, the clamp load will be spot on, and those tyres will thank you with even wear and a smooth ride.

• Torque spec: 120 N·m on clean, dry threads and seats
• Pattern: star/cross sequence
• Re‑torque: after 50–100 km following wheel removal
• Thread: M12 × 1.25 (tapered seat wheel nuts)

Popular questions about 2013 Subaru Tribeca wheel studs & nuts

What is the correct wheel nut torque for a 2013 Subaru Tribeca?

Subaru specifies 120 N·m (about 88.5 lb‑ft) on clean, dry threads and seats. Tighten in a star pattern and re‑check torque after 50–100 km if the wheel’s been off. This aligns with the Owner’s Manual and service information for the model.

How can someone tell if a Tribeca wheel stud or nut needs replacing?

Warning signs include rough or crunchy threads, visible stretching, a bent stud, or a nut with a damaged taper that no longer centres. If a nut won’t run on smoothly by hand, replace the affected parts—forcing it risks stripping the stud or under‑clamping the wheel.

Is it okay to use anti‑seize on Tribeca wheel studs?

No. Subaru service guidance expects dry threads and seats. Lubricants or anti‑seize reduce friction and can lead to over‑torque and incorrect clamp load, which may warp rotors or loosen wheels. Clean the hardware instead and torque it correctly.