Parts for your 2013 Subaru Forester-Wheel studs nuts

2013 Subaru Forester wheel studs & nuts — what they do and how to look after them

Based on the Subaru Forester Service Manual (Wheels & Tyres section, MY2013 SH/SJ), the Subaru Electronic Parts Catalog (FAST) for MY2013 Forester, and the Owner’s Manual torque specification, the 2013 Subaru Forester uses wheel studs and nuts (not wheel bolts). The Subaru spec for wheel nut tightening is 120 N·m on clean, dry threads, using a criss-cross pattern.

On this Forester, the wheel studs are fixed to the hub and the wheel nuts clamp the wheel to the hub face. That clamping force is what keeps the wheel centred and secure, supports braking loads, and prevents vibration. Subaru uses M12 × 1.25 studs with conical-seat nuts for OE wheels, making sure the seat type matches the wheel is key to proper clamping.

As part of routine servicing or any tyre rotation, a quick check of the studs and nuts pays off. Look for damaged or stretched threads, corrosion (common on coastal Aussie and Kiwi cars), or nuts that run rough or bind. If a stud has been over-torqued with a rattle gun, it can neck down and lose strength, likewise, cross-threading will chew out both stud and nut. Replace anything suspect straight away—brake and wheel security isn’t the place to wing it.

• Torque: 120 N·m on clean, dry threads, avoid lubricants and anti-seize unless a Subaru bulletin specifically calls for it.
• Pattern: tighten in a star pattern, re-check after 50–100 km, especially after wheel or tyre work.
• Seat: match the nut’s seat to the wheel (conical for most OE Forester wheels).

When replacing a stud, the usual method is to remove the wheel and brake rotor, then press the old stud out and the new one in. It’s tempting to draw a stud in with a sacrificial nut and washers, but pressing is kinder to the new stud and hub. If one stud has failed, inspect the rest on that hub—if two or more are damaged, replacing the set is a smart move. Always fit quality OE or OE-equivalent M12 × 1.25 studs and matching nuts, and bin any nut that shows galling or a deformed taper.

One last tip for road trips: make sure the wheel brace fits the Forester’s 19 mm hex nuts, and that any lock nut key is in the car. It’ll save a lot of roadside grief.

FAQs

What’s the correct wheel nut torque for a 2013 Subaru Forester?
Subaru specifies 120 N·m on clean, dry threads. Tighten in a star pattern and re-check after 50–100 km of driving following any wheel-off service. Using a torque wrench is recommended, avoid hammering away with a rattle gun.

Does the 2013 Forester use wheel bolts or wheel studs and nuts?
It uses wheel studs and nuts. The studs are pressed into the hub, and the nuts provide the clamping force. This setup makes roadside wheel changes easier and helps with consistent wheel centring on the hub face.

When should wheel studs or nuts be replaced?
Replace any time you see damaged or stretched threads, heavy rust, a deformed taper seat, or if a nut binds instead of spinning freely by hand. If a stud snaps, replace it and carefully inspect the others on the same hub. Use OE or OE-equivalent M12 × 1.25 parts and avoid mixing seat types.