Parts for your 2013 Subaru Forester-Bump stops

2013 Subaru Forester bump-stops

Yes, the 2013 Subaru Forester is fitted with bump-stops (also called jounce bumpers). Technical sources confirm their presence and role: the Subaru Forester 2013 (SH) Service Manual lists “Bumper – Front Strut” and “Bumper – Rear Shock Absorber” within the front and rear suspension sections, Subaru’s official parts catalogue for the SH/SH9 Forester shows separate bump-stop components for both axles, and major damper manufacturers’ fitment guides for this model (e.g., KYB and Monroe) specify the reuse or replacement of the strut/shock jounce bumper and dust boot during suspension work. They’re standard gear on this generation Forester.

On this Forester, bump-stops act as a final line of defence when the suspension compresses hard — think sharp potholes, corrugations, kerbs, or a loaded trip down a rough track. The foam or rubber bumper sits on the strut/shock shaft and progressively cushions the last part of the stroke, stopping metal-to-metal contact. That protects the strut internals, top mounts, springs, control arms and even the body shell, while keeping things quiet and tidy over big hits. They also help tune the handling at full compression so the car doesn’t get skittish when it bottoms out.

Because they work hard, bump-stops age. Heat, grime, oil mist and UV can make the material crack, crumble or go mushy. Once they’re perished or missing, the ride gets harsh, knocks creep in on big compressions, and the new struts you just fitted can cop unnecessary punishment. For a 2013 Forester that’s seen a few hundred thousand kilometres or a life of towing or roof loads, they’re well worth a look.

Best practice is to inspect the bump-stops any time the struts or rear shocks are out, or at least every 40,000–60,000 kilometres as part of a suspension check. Look for splits, chunking, oil saturation, or a collapsed/detached boot. If in doubt, replace — they’re inexpensive and should be done in axle pairs. Go for genuine Subaru or a known OE-equivalent so the length and foam density are correct. When installing, ensure the bump-stop is seated the right way up under the dust boot, and that the boot clips are secure so grit doesn’t chew out the shaft seal.

Running a lift or towing? A slightly firmer or longer bump-stop can help manage full-compression events. Lowering the car? A shorter progressive bump-stop may be needed so it doesn’t ride on the stops. If you’re DIYing, remember struts are under spring tension — use a proper compressor or leave it to a pro.

• Signs they need attention: thuds on big hits, harsh bottoming, torn/missing boots, visible cracks or crumbling foam.
• Good times to replace: with new struts/shocks, after off-road abuse, or when lowering/lifting.

FAQs — 2013 Subaru Forester bump-stops

Do the front and rear of a 2013 Forester both have bump-stops?
Yes. The front MacPherson struts use a jounce bumper under the dust boot, and the rear shock absorbers on the double-wishbone setup have their own bump-stops. They’re serviceable components and can be replaced separately from the dampers if needed.

When should bump-stops be replaced on this model?
Replace them whenever they’re cracked, crumbling, oil-soaked, or missing — and routinely whenever you’re fitting new struts or shocks. Many owners find they’re due somewhere between 100,000 and 150,000 kilometres, earlier if the car works hard off-road or carries heavy loads.

Can worn bump-stops cause knocks or a harsh ride?
They can. If the bump-stop is perished or gone, the suspension can bottom out with a bang, transferring load into the mounts and body. The car may feel crashy over sharp edges. Fresh bump-stops restore the progressive cushion at the end of the stroke and protect the new dampers.