Parts for your 2013 Mitsubishi Lancer-Wheel studs nuts

2013 Mitsubishi Lancer wheel studs and nuts — what they do, and how to look after them

Wheel studs and nuts are absolutely relevant to the 2013 Mitsubishi Lancer. Technical documentation confirms this: the Mitsubishi Motors Workshop Manual for the CJ/CF series (2012–2015) details five press-in wheel studs per hub secured by separate wheel nuts, the Mitsubishi ASA Electronic Parts Catalogue lists service parts for both studs and nuts front and rear, and the AU/NZ Owner’s Manual refers specifically to tightening and rechecking wheel nuts after tyre work. So this Lancer runs studs-and-nuts, not European-style wheel bolts.

On the 2013 Lancer, the studs are press-fitted into the hub flange and the tapered-seat nuts clamp the wheel to the hub. That clamping force is what keeps the wheel tight and true against the hub face through braking, cornering, and the odd pothole. It’s a simple, tough setup that also makes roadside wheel changes straightforward.

Most CJ/CF Lancers use five M12 x 1.5 studs with a 60° tapered-seat nut. Keeping the correct seat type and thread pitch matters — mixing mag-seat or ball-seat nuts with OEM wheels can damage the seat and loosen off under load. For tightening, follow the spec in the owner’s handbook and use a star pattern with a torque wrench. Many AU/NZ manuals list around 98 Nm, but owners should confirm the exact figure for their trim and wheels.

Good servicing habits for Lancer wheel studs and nuts include:

• Retorque after any wheel or tyre work, again after 50–100 km, then check at regular service intervals (e.g., tyre rotations every 10,000 km).
• Clean the threads and the wheel/hub mating faces, don’t lubricate studs or nut seats unless the service manual specifically says so.
• Avoid hammering them home with an impact gun — use the gun to snug, torque wrench to finish.

Replace a stud or nut if there’s thread galling, stretching, obvious rust pitting, a spinning stud in the hub, or if a nut’s taper is chewed up. Press-in studs install from the rear of the hub flange, depending on clearance, the hub may need removal to avoid fouling the backing plate or ABS tone ring. A proper stud installer tool and a sacrificial nut/washers help seat the new stud squarely without damaging threads. Replacing one damaged stud is fine, but if several look tired on the same hub, it’s smart to do them as a set. Locking nuts should match the same seat and be torqued like the rest.

• Signs it’s time to act: recurring wheel loosening, vibration after recent tyre work, visible thread damage, or any snapped stud.

Popular questions

What torque should the 2013 Lancer’s wheel nuts be tightened to?
Factory guidance should be followed — check the AU/NZ Owner’s Manual or workshop manual for the exact spec for the vehicle’s trim and wheels. Many CJ/CF Lancers specify about 98 Nm. Use a star pattern and recheck after 50–100 km whenever wheels have been off.

What thread and seat type are the Lancer’s wheel nuts?
The 2013 Mitsubishi Lancer typically uses M12 x 1.5 studs with 60° tapered-seat nuts. Always match thread pitch and seat type to the wheel. Using the wrong seat (e.g., ball-seat or mag-seat) can damage the wheel and reduce clamping force.

Can a single damaged stud be replaced, or should the whole set be done?
Replacing a single damaged stud is acceptable, but the rest on that hub should be inspected. If there’s widespread corrosion or multiple stretched threads, replacing the set on that hub avoids repeat labour and uneven clamping behaviour.