Parts for your 2013 Holden Commodore-Wheel studs nuts

2013 Holden Commodore wheel studs and nuts

Wheel studs and nuts are absolutely relevant to the 2013 Holden Commodore. Holden’s VE Series II and the early VF Series I (both sold in 2013) use five press-in wheel studs per hub with conical-seat wheel nuts. This is documented in the Holden VE/VF Owner’s Handbook (wheel changing and jacking instructions), the Holden Service Manual (Chassis – Wheels and Tyres), and the Holden/GM Genuine Parts Catalogue, which lists M12 x 1.5 wheel studs and matching nuts for these models. Those factory references also specify using a torque wrench to tighten the nuts to the model-appropriate specification, rather than relying on an impact gun.

On a 2013 Commodore, the studs provide the clamping platform and alignment for the wheel, while the nuts deliver the clamping force that secures the wheel to the hub. It’s a robust, serviceable setup that suits regular tyre rotations, brake work, and wheel changes on the roadside. The Commodore uses standard right‑hand threads on all corners.

As part of routine servicing, wheel studs and nuts deserve a quick check. The big risks are over‑torqueing, cross‑threading, and using the wrong nut seat profile. Commodore nuts are a 60‑degree taper, mixing in a mag/flat-seated nut or a wrong taper can loosen off in service. Always tighten with a torque wrench in a star pattern and follow the torque figure in the Owner’s Handbook or workshop data (commonly around 120–140 Nm depending on series and wheel). Avoid lubricants or anti‑seize on the threads unless a Holden service bulletin explicitly calls for it, torque values assume clean, dry threads.

Replacement is straightforward for a workshop: damaged studs press out of the hub flange and new ones are pressed or drawn in squarely. If a stud is stretched, rust-pitted, or its threads are rolled, replace it—don’t risk reusing it. Likewise, many Commodores ran capped wheel nuts, if the caps swell, deform, or the hex size becomes inconsistent, swap to quality replacements to prevent socket fit issues on the roadside.

• Inspect at every tyre rotation or brake service for damaged threads, swollen caps, or missing/different nuts.
• Clean the hub face and wheel mating surface, any debris can cause loss of clamping force.
• After wheel removal/refit, recheck torque after 50–100 km of driving.
• Never drive with a missing stud or nut, replace before further use.

Popular questions about 2013 Holden Commodore wheel studs and nuts

What size are the wheel studs and nuts on a 2013 Commodore?
Factory equipment is typically M12 x 1.5 thread with a 60‑degree conical seat and a 19 mm hex. Variants and wheel packages can differ, so it’s smart to confirm against the VIN or the Holden parts catalogue before ordering.

What torque should the wheel nuts be tightened to?
Follow the figure in the Owner’s Handbook or service data for the exact variant and wheel type. For 2013 Commodores (VE Series II and VF Series I), workshops commonly cite figures in the 120–140 Nm range. Use a torque wrench and a star pattern, and avoid lubricating the threads unless a Holden bulletin specifies otherwise.

Can individual wheel studs be replaced, or does the hub need changing?
Individual studs can be replaced. The brake rotor is removed, the damaged stud is pressed out, and a new stud is pressed or drawn in squarely. If multiple studs are damaged or the hub flange holes are elongated, further hub inspection or replacement may be required.